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What engine oil do you use

CT22

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Amsoil all day every day for every vehicle I own!

I use the 5w30 but was tempted to use a 10w40 in the summer being it’s 107 here. But ultimately I stuck with the 5w30
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Farmer Fran

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It takes several oil changes to remove and replace any engine oil.
Can you please expand on this? I am honestly interested. A 10qt engine takes roughly how many intervals?
 

dusman59

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Before 1966 I used Quaker Sate Super Blend. After I got an account at a Ford dealer I used only Ford oil since. Never had any issues with any of my engines. I used it all my Ford customer cars also. The only exception is my wifes Murano which is dealer serviced which has an oil change package. There might be better oil than Ford but it has worked for me for many years.
 

Skye

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Can you please expand on this? I am honestly interested. A 10qt engine takes roughly how many intervals?
Skye is a Gen3 Coyote, with a factory oil cooler. The oil change specification is 10 quarts / 9.5 liters.

My first oil change I performed an oil analysis. All results were nominal. In the comments, Blackstone mentioned it would take 2 - 3 oil changes to completely flush anything from the new engine. And this made sense to me.

I have the factory manuals for my truck. If rebuilding that engine, I'm to add one additional quart of oil. I suspect a Coyote would be the same: an amount over and above the 10 quarts would be specified.

We drain and replace 10 quarts, but not the engine and cooler (if used) is not drained dry. There has to be some in the galleys, low-sitting places, the oil cooler lines, etc. Further, in new engines, at least one chemical reaction is occurring: passivation. Passivation is where the new copper is oxidizing; it's a natural and welcome change which helps protect those copper-based components.

The "flushing" effect Blackstone was referring to can be seen in my most recent oil analysis. Notice how some numbers continue to improve, while others associated with factory leave-behinds or new engines are fading.

I do believe in doing the 1000 mi, 1600 km oil change. For my generation of engine, Ford references a break-in period and mileage. For the Gen4, for whatever reason, Ford left the mileage reference out of the manual.

Doing the initial oil change early is simply a step towards goodness. I've been intentionally wearing and seating the internals. There have to be elements shed in the process. Further, it's difficult for me to imagine the block, heads and assembly were white glove clean at the factory. Blackstone's initial comments at the first oil analysis highlight high amounts of silicone and copper: a tell of a new Ford engine.

That's a bit much, but it gives insight as to what's going on and why I believe in selecting a brand, weight and using that consistently. Any oil brand, weight and type has a specific chemical profile. Selecting whatever's available, on-sale or sounds good at the time messes with that, resulting in an overall blend of properties. It's something I'd like to avoid.

I referenced two to three oil changes to stabilize the characteristics of the oil. I do not believe multiple changes in quick succession are worthwhile. I did the early, initial oil change and have been following the Oil Life Monitor ever since.

Regarding the miles referenced below, Skye is a weekend and Holiday car, stored during the winter. She naturally doesn't see many miles. Weekday traffic in my area often consists of long processions of school busses, dump trucks and cement mixers, none of which is inspiring to drive in.

S650 Mustang What engine oil do you use skye oil analysis 2023
 
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OP
OP

Adamrx11

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Skye is a Gen3 Coyote, with a factory oil cooler. The oil change specification is 10 quarts / 9.5 liters.

My first oil change I performed an oil analysis. All results were nominal. In the comments, Blackstone mentioned it would take 2 - 3 oil changes to completely flush anything from the new engine. And this made sense to me.

I have the factory manuals for my truck. If rebuilding that engine, I'm to add one additional quart of oil. I suspect a Coyote would be the same: an amount over and above the 10 quarts would be specified.

We drain and replace 10 quarts, but not all of it comes out. There has to be some in the galleys, low-sitting places, the oil cooler lines, etc. Further, in new engines, at least one chemical reaction is occurring: passivation. Passivation is where the new copper is oxidizing; it's a natural and welcome change which helps protect those copper-based components.

The "flushing" effect Blackstone was referring to can be seen in my most recent oil analysis. Notice how some numbers continue to improve, while others associated with factory leave-behinds or new engines are fading.

I do believe in doing the 1000 mi, 1600 km oil change. For my generation of engine, Ford references a break-in period and mileage. For the Gen4, for whatever reason, Ford left the mileage reference out of the manual.

Doing the initial oil change early is simply a step towards goodness. I've been intentionally wearing and seating the internals. There have to be elements shed in the process. Further, it's difficult for me to imagine the block, heads and assembly were white glove clean at the factory. Blackstone's initial comments at the first oil analysis highlight high amounts of silicone and copper: a tell of a new Ford engine.

That's a bit much, but it gives insight as to what's going on and why I believe in selecting a brand, weight and using that consistently.

I referenced two to three oil changes to stabilize the characteristics of the oil. I do not believe multiple changes in quick succession are worthwhile. I did the early, initial oil change and have been following the Oil Life Monitor ever since.

Regarding the miles referenced below, Skye is a weekend and Holiday car, stored during the winter. She naturally doesn't see many miles. Weekday traffic in my area often consists of long processions of school busses, dump trucks and cement mixers, none of which is inspiring to drive in.

skye oil analysis 2023.jpg
Good read, appreciate this. If you are going by Ford manual, that's 10,000 miles, but I see peop on this forum do every 5,000 miles. I was planning to do every 5,000 miles because this is my daily and I drive it hard, but you've got me thinking maybe I'll just follow the oil monitor life and do it closer to 7500-10,000 miles, just depends what the on screen monitor tells me
 

Skye

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If you are going by Ford manual, that's 10,000 miles
Yes, that's the baseline. For someone driving a Ford engine in a common use scenario, about 10,000 miles or once-a-year.

The attached gets in the weeds, but gives an idea of how the Oil Life Monitor works. Temperature, RPM, driving time and time itself effect the rate of change from 100% to 0%. At one extreme, a car sitting in storage, the OLM will tick down about 2% a week, resulting in a 0% at the end of one year and and oil change. At the other, someone doing track time, the rate of change will be much greater. Most of us are in-between.

Whatever you decide, if the dealer is performing, confirm they reset your OLM; they forget that sometimes. :crazy:I think it's also they might not know where the feature is in the menus.

Edit,

While I follow the OLM, some deviate from that and use their own interval. That's cool. But I have no reason to doubt the OLM. Oil analysis has proven things are fine, the OLM was designed by the people who engineered the engine and millions of vehicles rely on the OLM. I feel if there was something faulty in the logic of the software, it would trend out.

Exception: track time. Read the Owner's Manual regarding track time and any possible changes to the maintenance schedule as a result.

PCM - Powertrain Control Module
IPC - Instrument Panel Cluster
GWM - GateWay Module
HS-CAN - High-Speed Controller Area Network (there are several)

S650 Mustang What engine oil do you use oil life monitor logic
 
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krisk

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Good read, appreciate this. If you are going by Ford manual, that's 10,000 miles, but I see peop on this forum do every 5,000 miles. I was planning to do every 5,000 miles because this is my daily and I drive it hard, but you've got me thinking maybe I'll just follow the oil monitor life and do it closer to 7500-10,000 miles, just depends what the on screen monitor tells me
Yes, that's the baseline. For someone driving a Ford engine in a common use scenario, about 10,000 miles or once-a-year.

The attached gets in the weeds, but gives an idea of how the Oil Life Monitor works. Temperature, RPM, driving time and time itself effect the rate of change from 100% to 0%. At one extreme, a car sitting in storage, the OLM will tick down about 2% a week, resulting in a 0% at the end of one year and and oil change. At the other, someone doing track time, the rate of change will be much greater. Most of us are in-between.
I can confirm the Oil Life Monitor significantly adjusts the intervals based on how you drive. I changed my oil last when the Oil Life Monitor showed less than 10% life left, and I had only driven 2,279 miles, but 163 of those miles were on the track. Based on the how the OLM percentages changed, I expect driving 250-300 miles on the track would result in a notice to change the oil. The OLM works considering it could indicate an oil change is needed as quickly as 250 miles or as long as 10,000 miles, so I let it tell me when to change. The only exception to following the OLM is, like @Skye, I did my first oil change early at 1,294 miles (none of those were track miles).
 

n_123

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Amsoil Signature Series. Do I believe the stuff is magic? No. Do I believe it is likely higher quality than the comparable motorcraft stuff? Absolutely. For the way I drive my car I want it.

Just to share my anectdotal experience, I did my first oil change at 2k miles with motorcraft. I burnt about 1/2 of a quart within the next 3k miles. I wasn’t satisfied with this so I switched to Amsoil at 5k. During my last interval (5k-9k) I burnt less than 1/4 of a quart and during my current interval (9k-13k, car has 12,250 on it) I haven’t burnt a drop thus far. So whether it’s because the car needed to break in a little more or the oil is just better quality, I’m just gonna keep running it.
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