5.0ALM
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2022
- Threads
- 83
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- 1,069
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- 1,768
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 RAV4 Cruiser, 2024.50 Mustang GT Fastback
- Thread starter
- #136
Dash Cams
Finally catching up on unboxing some new toys that arrived in the past week.
A dash cam was meant to be the first "mod" to the Mustang, given the sheer number of f##king idiots on the road.
I almost purchased [what was the best available at the time] a pair of Viofo A229 Pros, but discovered the A329 was in the field being tested, and decided to wait just a little bit longer.
If you've been following The Dash cam Thread you will appreciate the only dash cams worth considering are those with the Sony Starvis 2 image sensor, which is far superior to anything else.
The recently released Viofo A329 2-Channel kit is one of the few that has a Starvis 2 sensor in both the front 4k camera (IMX678 sensor) and rear 2k camera (IMX675 sensor).
Bottom line, if your cheapo dash cam has poor image quality, and you can't make out number plate details etc, then what's the point?
(Rhetorical question!)
With that in mind, two were purchased during the recent Black Friday specials, one for the Mustang, and one for the RAV4 daily driver. Viofo Australia must have been overwhelmed with orders because it took over a week to ship out their door.
Powering the dash cam in the Mustang was a big unknown at the time of ordering, so only one hardwire kit for the RAV4 was purchased, along with fuse taps. More on powering the dash cam coming up...
CPL filters (circular polarising) come standard for the front cameras, but consider it mandatory to get the optional CPL filters for the rear cameras, along with the recommended SD cards. Although you can buy generic and brand name cards from anywhere, lots of people tend to have drama with cards that are not on the "approved list". That can be a bit hit and miss, and not worth the false saving.
Now, powering the thing.
Just because it has a USB-C connector doesn't automatically mean it will run off 5V.
USB-C devices could run off 5V, 9V, 12V or even 18V as my HP x360 Envy notebook does.
I was pleasantly surprised that the A329 actually runs off 5V, and in the 2 channel configuration.
Current @5V was just under 1A.
And guess what we have in the rear view mirror assembly?
A USB connector delivering 5V.
Hooking up the A329 in 2-Ch configuration in the Mustang, and it "just works" being powered off the mirror port!
Posts on this forum suggest this USB port remains powered up for ~20 minutes or so after the vehicle is powered down, although I'm going to do my own tests to verify this.
If that's the case, then perfect for the 50ALM garage Queen.
Not being a daily driver, I have no need to keep the dash cam powered up all day long.
And for the hell of it, back in the "lab" inside, current draw @ 12V5 (nominal battery volts with vehicle off)
And whilst the vehicle would be running @ nominal 13V8
:
After scouring the internet, I believe I've found the ideal short (29cm) USB-A to USB-C lead with right angle connectors to keep the install neat. It was important to make sure the USB-A connector was orientated the correct way with the dash cam being on the drivers side of the mirror.
I'll just put up with the longer supplied lead and an adpater until this lead arrives in two weeks.
Being able to power the dash cam from the mirror port makes the install so much easier, with only having to run the rear camera cable under the trim and headliner.
Running the rear camera cable appears to be relatively easy after watching Chris Cervenka's video.
I might end up doing my own install video +/- enthusiasm for that.
Finally catching up on unboxing some new toys that arrived in the past week.
A dash cam was meant to be the first "mod" to the Mustang, given the sheer number of f##king idiots on the road.
I almost purchased [what was the best available at the time] a pair of Viofo A229 Pros, but discovered the A329 was in the field being tested, and decided to wait just a little bit longer.
If you've been following The Dash cam Thread you will appreciate the only dash cams worth considering are those with the Sony Starvis 2 image sensor, which is far superior to anything else.
The recently released Viofo A329 2-Channel kit is one of the few that has a Starvis 2 sensor in both the front 4k camera (IMX678 sensor) and rear 2k camera (IMX675 sensor).
Bottom line, if your cheapo dash cam has poor image quality, and you can't make out number plate details etc, then what's the point?
(Rhetorical question!)
With that in mind, two were purchased during the recent Black Friday specials, one for the Mustang, and one for the RAV4 daily driver. Viofo Australia must have been overwhelmed with orders because it took over a week to ship out their door.
Powering the dash cam in the Mustang was a big unknown at the time of ordering, so only one hardwire kit for the RAV4 was purchased, along with fuse taps. More on powering the dash cam coming up...
CPL filters (circular polarising) come standard for the front cameras, but consider it mandatory to get the optional CPL filters for the rear cameras, along with the recommended SD cards. Although you can buy generic and brand name cards from anywhere, lots of people tend to have drama with cards that are not on the "approved list". That can be a bit hit and miss, and not worth the false saving.
Now, powering the thing.
Just because it has a USB-C connector doesn't automatically mean it will run off 5V.
USB-C devices could run off 5V, 9V, 12V or even 18V as my HP x360 Envy notebook does.
I was pleasantly surprised that the A329 actually runs off 5V, and in the 2 channel configuration.
Current @5V was just under 1A.
And guess what we have in the rear view mirror assembly?
A USB connector delivering 5V.
Hooking up the A329 in 2-Ch configuration in the Mustang, and it "just works" being powered off the mirror port!
Posts on this forum suggest this USB port remains powered up for ~20 minutes or so after the vehicle is powered down, although I'm going to do my own tests to verify this.
If that's the case, then perfect for the 50ALM garage Queen.
Not being a daily driver, I have no need to keep the dash cam powered up all day long.
And for the hell of it, back in the "lab" inside, current draw @ 12V5 (nominal battery volts with vehicle off)
And whilst the vehicle would be running @ nominal 13V8
After scouring the internet, I believe I've found the ideal short (29cm) USB-A to USB-C lead with right angle connectors to keep the install neat. It was important to make sure the USB-A connector was orientated the correct way with the dash cam being on the drivers side of the mirror.
I'll just put up with the longer supplied lead and an adpater until this lead arrives in two weeks.
Being able to power the dash cam from the mirror port makes the install so much easier, with only having to run the rear camera cable under the trim and headliner.
Running the rear camera cable appears to be relatively easy after watching Chris Cervenka's video.
I might end up doing my own install video +/- enthusiasm for that.
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