Coyote Oil Viscosity in High Temp Climates ?

[CT22]

I own the DHHP and live in central TX. It’s consistently been mid 90’s this month and will soon be in the 100s until about end of August. I’m about to do an oil change and considering changing viscosity from the 5W-30 recommended to an AmsOil 10W-40 maybe even 15W-50. I’ll definitely do another oil change in the Winter but it doesn’t get cold here until late Dec.

This is the first Coyote I’ve owned. Who has experience changing viscosity from what’s recommended in high temps?

Any one else doing this in hotter climates? Thanks!

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[MM24GT]

I live in AZ and temps have been upper 100’s this past week. Curious what the opinion is on higher viscosity. Here is pic of temps the other day when I was running around. It hit 115 before day’s end. I didn’t see a dramatic drop in oil pressure. My GT has just over 800 miles on it.

 

[DCS]

I live in AZ and temps have been upper 100’s this past week. Curious what the opinion is on higher viscosity. Here is pic of temps the other day when I was running around. It hit 115 before day’s end. I didn’t see a dramatic drop in oil pressure. My GT has just over 800 miles on it.

Thanks for the pics. I will compare to mine in Central FL with temps in the mid-nineties. I also love your signature. I'm 77!

 

[Skye]

I trolled several threads on the topic. Some involving street driving in the south. Others, when people track.

Like any oil thread, there is no consensus. Some continue to use 5W-30, others 0W-40, 10W-40 or 15W-50. You name it. It's all over the place.

The 2024 Owners Manual says 5W-30 can continue to be used up to an air temperature of 104F / 40C.

An additional factor to consider is Cylinder Head Temperature, when and how many cooling fans are operating.

Most drivers are using their A/C at these temps. At least one cooling fan will run when the A/C is turned on.

If A/C isn't used, the attached highlights when Gen3 fans kick in. 212F for the initial fan, 223F for both.

Finally, internal engine tolerances need to be taken into consideration if changing weights.

 

[cosmo73]

I am using Mobil 1 0w-40 for the summer. In SE Pennsy we rarely see over 95, but many days around 90. I use 5w-30 the rest of the seasons.

 

[roadpilot]

I follow the owner's manual.

 

[Crew4991]

I follow the owner's manual.

Right? Seems silly to reinvent the wheel when the engineers already did it for us.

On top of that, the engine the oil goes into is on its 4th generation of the coyote that has been around since 2011... owner's manual hasn't changed in more than a decade.
Peeps, please don't complicate things.

 

[Lastoutlaw_21]

Right? Seems silly to reinvent the wheel when the engineers already did it for us.

On top of that, the engine the oil goes into is on its 4th generation of the coyote that has been around since 2011... owner's manual hasn't changed in more than a decade.
Peeps, please don't complicate things.

No one is complicating anything. For those who live in the southern belt also known as hell. We have seen dry heat Temps 90-100 degrees and we know that this is only stage 1 of hell. We have 4 more to go before it cools off. So it's important to not run an oil that's easy to boil and stay boiling.

I have a DHHP and saw Cylinder head Temps 215, engine oil 225 and transmission Temps 210, axle Temps 170 today. It was 100 degrees of pure heat with no wind today. Just dry heat. So I have started to wonder what is the best oil to run in the summer especially after I install the whipple.

 

[Lastoutlaw_21]

I follow the owner's manual.

Southern heat does not go by the manual . We get Temps 100-115 and up with humidity or dry heat. We already over the owners manual ambient Temps for the suggested oil.

 

[JAM486HP]

No one is complicating anything. For those who live in the southern belt also known as hell. We have seen dry heat Temps 90-100 degrees and we know that this is only stage 1 of hell. We have 4 more to go before it cools off. So it's important to not run an oil that's easy to boil and stay boiling.

I have a DHHP and saw Cylinder head Temps 215, engine oil 225 and transmission Temps 210, axle Temps 170 today. It was 100 degrees of pure heat with no wind today. Just dry heat. So I have started to wonder what is the best oil to run in the summer especially after I install the whipple.

Were getting close to hell round here too, though I'm seeing those engine temps consistently when its sunny 95 out or a cool 59 degree night. This coyote just seems to run hot, full synthetic 5w30. God forbid I pop the hood, could literally fry an egg on anything under there. Seriously think it needs a GT500 hood.

 

[AdrenalDestruction]

Just had my box of 5w50 land - also an Arizonan. At some point, there’s a Whipple coming in the mail and that unit specifies/recommends the heavier blend. With our obscene heat and that aftermarket tidbit, I’ll be trying the 5w50 until/unless the vehicle disagrees. I also drive very conservatively when it’s in the triple digits.

For the folks saying, “don’t complicate things,” there are maybe three key considerations:
-you’ll never find a consensus on oils (or break-in, or…, or …) in the auto world
-OEM is not strictly about longevity; they have other ratings to consider
-IT GETS HOT HERE/THERE. Like, really hot. Hot enough to give pause and maybe make some adjustments.

 

[Skye]

So I have started to wonder what is the best oil to run in the summer especially after I install the whipple.

When you receive the parts and are reviewing the instructions, first few pages will have a paragraph specifying the weight of oil to use.

As an example, referenced are the instructions for the Whipple Kit, F150, Coyote.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/IS_M-6066-F150SCA_62822.PDF

"Whipple highly recommends running Ford Motorcraft 5W-50 full synthetic motor oil (PN #XL-5W50-QGT) vs the stock 5W-20. You will need up to 8 quarts for an oil change along with a Motorcraft oil filter #FL-500."

I attempted to find the Whipple Mustang instructions and could not readily locate them.

The weight changes, primarily due to the increase in internal pressures and forces. Spark plug gap will also change. If contacted, Whipple might offer some further guidance for those installing in high heat areas.

To anyone, as others have begun discussing, if higher-than-normal CHT or oil temps are being seen, I'd look at additional cooling, either a dedicated oil cooler or increased under hood airflow. Conversations on track forums or at the track could help.

 

[SSuperDave]

You have to watch, regardless of temps, because engines with variable valve timing can have trouble with heavier oil causing the vcts to not work correctly. I'm in Houston so I think I know a little bit about high temps. I've had numerous cases on all types of vehicle with check engine lights for misfires, rough running etc because of higher than recommended oil viscosities. Somebody comes in with problems you stick it and the oils brand new you ask them if they just had it changed and you look at their receipt and somebody put 2050 in it. You change it with the right stuff and you have no more problems. Some vehicle recommendations are zero w20 and even in our climate that's still works. Counterintuitive, and most of you are going to do what you want but that is my two cents after working here at dealerships for 30 years.

 

[roadpilot]

No one is complicating anything. For those who live in the southern belt also known as hell.

Last time I checked, the owner's manual reads the same up here as it does in the south. Y'all still speak English there, even with the accent, right?

 

[Zig]

Would a thermostat change help?

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