Coyote Oil Viscosity in High Temp Climates ?

[dusman59]

Ford does extensive testing here in Arizona because of the extremes in climate. Last summer heat was record breaking. If oil weight was a problem they would have put it in the manual. Go with the manual unless your doing something other than street driving or engine mods that require it. My 2011 uses 5-30 blend since new and runs find. My 24 will use the same.

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[metroplex]

Ford's oil viscosity recommendations are all over the map, even for the same engine with the same parts.

The 2.3L in the Focus RS here in the US uses 5W-50 synthetic but in Europe, there's a specific Ford 0W-40 synthetic oil spec. And obviously the regular 2.3's use 5W-30. EcoBoost actually first came out spec'd for 5W-20 in the 3.5L EcoBoost in the Lincoln MKZ in 2009 and the SHO in 2010. When the F-150's debuted with the 3.5 EcoBoost, the oil spec was changed to 5W-30.

Most of the differences were largely in the formulation and additives at least back then. With Calcium being attributed to the cause of LSPI in direct injected engines, the newer oil standards like API SP and ILSAC GF-6A/B call for reduced Calcium levels etc... which is covered by Dexos 1 Gen III as well.

 

[Lastoutlaw_21]

Were getting close to hell round here too, though I'm seeing those engine temps consistently when its sunny 95 out or a cool 59 degree night. This coyote just seems to run hot, full synthetic 5w30. God forbid I pop the hood, could literally fry an egg on anything under there. Seriously think it needs a GT500 hood.

View attachment 580706

Lol the heat is no joke. And I popped the hood for a car show yesterday. The heat from under the hood was insane. A judge accidentally touched the strut brace and backed up real quick. I think the gt500 hood should be standard on the V8's. But at least the hood is not like the ones on the previous gen. Those were not functional on the GT's.

 

[Lastoutlaw_21]

Last time I checked, the owner's manual reads the same up here as it does in the south. Y'all still speak English there, even with the accent, right?

Lol we do, we also see cars smoking on the side of the road smoking or on fire due to the heat. So yeah the summer time is not the time to see if a company with lots of recalls is being honest about oil temps in extreme heat. Especially for those who drive long distances in stop and go traffic. Hopefully all the northern lights haven't caused vision issues lol.

Just saying a manufacturer like ford is not going to spend money on the best oil for their cars for mass production. They will go with something in the middle at best. Even Ford Performance doesn't use the recommended oil manufacturer. And they said the cars run better Temp wise after the switch. So im also talking about the manufacturer brand of the oil too.

 

[Lastoutlaw_21]

When you receive the parts and are reviewing the instructions, first few pages will have a paragraph specifying the weight of oil to use.

As an example, referenced are the instructions for the Whipple Kit, F150, Coyote.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/IS_M-6066-F150SCA_62822.PDF

"Whipple highly recommends running Ford Motorcraft 5W-50 full synthetic motor oil (PN #XL-5W50-QGT) vs the stock 5W-20. You will need up to 8 quarts for an oil change along with a Motorcraft oil filter #FL-500."

I attempted to find the Whipple Mustang instructions and could not readily locate them.

The weight changes, primarily due to the increase in internal pressures and forces. Spark plug gap will also change. If contacted, Whipple might offer some further guidance for those installing in high heat areas.

To anyone, as others have begun discussing, if higher-than-normal CHT or oil temps are being seen, I'd look at additional cooling, either a dedicated oil cooler or increased under hood airflow. Conversations on track forums or at the track could help.

I have seen where whipple recommended 5w-50. I don't think I will go with Motorcraft. Ford and whipple have a deal so they will recommend Motorcraft. Some performance whipple shops do not recommend Motorcraft brand due to it getting hotter when doing performance stuff when compared to a few other brands. I also need to look at my oil change sheet to see how many quarts the DH needs. I think it was 10 due to the oil coolers.

 

[metroplex]

I have seen where whipple recommended 5w-50. I don't think I will go with Motorcraft. Ford and whipple have a deal so they will recommend Motorcraft. Some performance whipple shops do not recommend Motorcraft brand due to it getting hotter when doing performance stuff when compared to a few other brands. I also need to look at my oil change sheet to see how many quarts the DH needs. I think it was 10 due to the oil coolers.

Regular GT is 10 qt of 5W-30 (synthetic blend) and the owner's manual doesn't specify anything different for the Dark Horse. The alternative oil is 0W-30 for colder climates and high altitude driving (above 7500').

If you are tracking your car, I wouldn't hesitate to run a xW-40 or xW-50 synthetic and then change it back to xW-30 for street/daily driving.

 

[Crew4991]

No one is complicating anything. For those who live in the southern belt also known as hell. We have seen dry heat Temps 90-100 degrees and we know that this is only stage 1 of hell. We have 4 more to go before it cools off. So it's important to not run an oil that's easy to boil and stay boiling.

I have a DHHP and saw Cylinder head Temps 215, engine oil 225 and transmission Temps 210, axle Temps 170 today. It was 100 degrees of pure heat with no wind today. Just dry heat. So I have started to wonder what is the best oil to run in the summer especially after I install the whipple.

Having lived in Southern California desert and then Phoenix AZ where it is regularly 110-120 degrees, I can assure you the owners manual is accurate and does not need to be changed for a stock car engine in a place where it is 90-100.

The moment one starts to mod their car, that may change things a little - good point to mention.
But for the vast majority out there that keep the car stock, it is pointless to change up the oil.

 

[Skye]

Would a thermostat change help?

I've been thinking about that...

- The engine and the drivetrain are designed as a system. Ford installed a thermostat to operate at a given set point, the engine at a certain temperature range. While a cooler thermostat might have a positive effect at peak Summer, it could be detrimental the rest of the year

- Taking the point above, an engine consistently operating cooler than designed could operate richer, more often, diluting the oil quicker than expected with greater fuel wash

- A cooler engine is going to effect the viscosity of the oil, it being "thinner" or less viscus. In the hotter environments, I'm looking to maintain my viscosity at max. Specific to the Whipple, I'm looking for more still

- Potentially, a cooler thermostat would be open all the time, the coolant circulating constantly, never having the opportunity to cool down before re-entering the engine

Saying that, unless a manufacturer supporting a mod directs a change, I'd prefer leaving the thermostat as-is. In the environments where I am witnessing excess heat or heat soak, I'd like to focus on methods to reduce the effects of the additional environmental heat (hood vents, oil cooler, bigger radiator, etc.) while letting the thermostat operate as intended. The engine stays the same. I've simply given the vehicle a greater cooling reserve or capacity, to use when needed.

 

[Zig]

I've been thinking about that...

- The engine and the drivetrain are designed as a system. Ford installed a thermostat to operate at a given set point, the engine at a certain temperature range. While a cooler thermostat might have a positive effect at peak Summer, it could be detrimental the rest of the year

- Taking the point above, an engine consistently operating cooler than designed could operate richer, more often, diluting the oil quicker than expected with greater fuel wash

- A cooler engine is going to effect the viscosity of the oil, it being "thinner" or less viscus. In the hotter environments, I'm looking to maintain my viscosity at max. Specific to the Whipple, I'm looking for more still

- Potentially, a cooler thermostat would be open all the time, the coolant circulating constantly, never having the opportunity to cool down before re-entering the engine

Saying that, unless a manufacturer supporting a mod directs a change, I'd prefer leaving the thermostat as-is. In the environments where I am witnessing excess heat or heat soak, I'd like to focus on methods to reduce the effects of the additional environmental heat (hood vents, oil cooler, bigger radiator, etc.) while letting the thermostat operate as intended. The engine stays the same. I've simply given the vehicle a greater cooling reserve or capacity, to use when needed.

Where does the engine heat go and what causes it? Not saying drop all the way to a 160 but i might be tempted to adjust cooling before i change lube.

 

[SSuperDave]

A ton of heat comes out extractor in the hood supposed to when you are moving the air flow over the hood pulls the heat out the vents. At idle I don't know but I can't see any temp differences in mind between driving or idling. We're all well aware that the Ford engineers make mistakes, but they designed this stuff for longevity so that they don't have to pay any more warranty claims than if necessary. The only Coyote engine failures I've seen are ones where someone has a, leaned on it a bit

 

[roadpilot]

Ford's oil viscosity recommendations are all over the map, even for the same engine with the same parts.

Your car was delivered with one owner's manual.

 

[roadpilot]

Lol we do, we also see cars smoking on the side of the road smoking or on fire due to the heat. So yeah the summer time is not the time to see if a company with lots of recalls is being honest about oil temps in extreme heat.

Last time I checked, there were absolutely zero recalls for the S650 related to engines and engine oil.

Go ahead and fill your crankcase with whatever you want ... then let us know how it works out when you try to make that warranty claim.

 

[Wiley Marmot]

NOTE TO SELF: Based on extensive Forum Member experience DO NOT move to the South or Southwest!

 

[roadpilot]

NOTE TO SELF: Based on extensive Forum Member experience DO NOT move to the South or Southwest!

You can move, but unless you desgined and built your car's engine, don't try to pretend you know more about it than they folks who did ...

 

[Wiley Marmot]

Far more worried about myself than my GT's engine! Help! I've melted and can't get up!

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