i bought my DH Premium non HP w recaros last year with 26 miles for MSRP from Manheid.
$68,405
$1,999 transport
$4,095 taxes
$74,499 out the door.
I can’t imagine what dealers are charging for these cars today
i went through two pairs of the etsy holders. you have to make sure the little tooth from the seatbelt holder grabs the top part of the OEM seatbelt guide. If it doesn’t sit flush, the guide will have a bit of a space and the seatbelt will pop out when putting on. Also, it’ll be a bit loose and...
i think it’s doing this because the antennna is looking for the key to leave a perimeter and that’s interfering with the overall range. i haven’t tested the long range after the update but if it’s working again, i’ll just leave it as is.
i programmed the walk away lock and it worked for a bit. My keyfob signal wasn’t working when i was over 200 ft away though but i had walk away lock. i now currently do not have it anymore after the car updated itself. has anybody seen anything like this?
damn i haven’t looked into this in a minute lol. i’d have to get both plugs male and female and then convert it to a Y plug that’ll go into the cup holder.
Time alignment wise I used the cup holder as a center point. My DSP is pretty cool in the sense that it allows me to input the distance & it’ll do its own time alignment calculation. This really brought the whole system together
I have a DSP you fool lol. I did time alignment, adjusted each speaker to each individual frequency and used an oscilloscope to make sure everything is calibrated. The sound system is designed by B&O not made by them. It’s fords shitty tuning.
You’ll need to redo the whole sound system to get this to sound acceptable. I swapped speakers at first and got less crunchy highs but nonetheless still mid quality sound
B&O system should give you more dynamic control though. The stock system only gives you 3 bands. Having total control of each speaker and its frequency / gain is a game changer.
You can also do a remote turn on to the window/locks fuse but you 110% need to grab power from the battery. The window switches stay on until you open the driver door. I don’t recommend the door fuse remote tap because ever since the latest update, the radio has a 2-3 second delay before...
First one I grabbed remote signal from LOC (not my fav thing to do as its signal sensing). Second one I used the AMP PRO interface from PAC and it has its own
LOC converted bass signal from two of the four wires coming out of subwoofer harness (they both got the same signal)
everything wired...
I ended up changing my setup completely. I’m running an 800x2 on the door speakers and two 440x4’s for the upper mids, tweeters and deck. Got a 1600Wx2 for the sub.