Are you using the center speaker? It kinda throws off the whole set up. I have the center and upper door mids running off a 4 channel
I pulled the center speaker out a long time ago
Yes, the cover pulls up, use a trim removal tool...
Same. Ha. I ordered B&O for my Bronco and they deleted it because of part supply . You talk about a 70 grand vehicle with a crap system. Still have t upgraded it. So I am fairly Happy with the Dark Horse system. I know we paid way to much for what we got but at least it’s sounds presentable
B&O system should give you more dynamic control though. The stock system only gives you 3 bands. Having total control of each speaker and its frequency / gain is a game changer.
Finally got around to correcting this garbage system Ford calls “premium”. This write up is going to be pretty long so I’ll simplify it as best as I can. Upgrading the B&O is 1000x more expensive than a factory system and a bit more complex because of how the B&O system is laid out.
The Subwoofer
If you want to start with a simple and cheap sound upgrade to make your life easy, I recommend swapping out the subwoofer in the back. You’ll need the Pioneer TS-A250D4, some harness plugs (Red Wolf), Polyfill and sound deadening. There’s a few write ups on this site on how to do it so I’ll link the easiest one to follow. I went the extra mile & wrapped my enclosure in carpet to help reduce rattles.
Subwoofer Install Link
The Cabin Speakers
Ford laid out the B&O as two Pillar tweeters & a dash midrange speaker powered by the ACM (non amplified) & two mid range speakers / woofers on the doors (amplified) alongside two deck coaxials (amplified). Before you do anything, you’ll have to swap out all of these speakers.
I used Pioneer TS-A301TW for the pillars & Kicker 51KSC2704 for the dash and upper door mids (3 drivers). The pillar speakers you have to hot glue to fit & the center dash you should be able to use the bracket supplied with the kickers. I used B&C 6MDN44 6.5”s Mid woofers for the doors (do not use brackets, cut out the B&O speakers and shave them down to fit the B&C drivers). You’ll also have to shave the circular lip ring on the door trim panel since they will touch these drivers and rattle. The upper mid drivers should be installed in the same style (cut the original brackets and solder on to the pins). I used Metra 72-5602 harness pigtails for the B&C driver wiring.
The deck speakers are a little more complex in the sense that you have to remove the plastic trim surrounding the package tray. Be very careful removing this as you can scratch it up due to the rear window defroster plugs. Remove both rear quarter trim pieces and place a cloth rag on each corner of the deck trim. Pry up and it should come out. You have to use the Metra 72-5602 harness pigtails & bracket adapters for the speaker swap. I used JL C1-650X drivers. Like the door trim panels, you have to shave the lips from the deck so it doesn’t make contact with the speaker. Please be advised the deck may rattle after removal/ installation. Be sure to use sound deadening and ensure the trim panel fits right after reinstallation.
Amplifier Wiring
Just like your basic amp install, run power through the right front (make sure you drill the power wire to the positive battery connector, not the BSM sensor) and ground underneath the backseat bracket (sand your grounding surface prior to install) I honestly did not install the PAC unit but I can assume it is very straight forward if you’re experienced in installing 4 channel drivers. It gives you a remote lead and signal for 6 channels. It also plugs in to the wiring of the factory system. The PAC bypass includes three wire harnesses and a knob. I believe one of the harnesses plugs to the amp and the other is for behind the radio (one of the two will fit it). I honestly found it easier to run my own wiring to the back instead of taking apart the radio and running wires through the middle. You’d have to identify which speaker belongs to which pair of wiring as the PAC wires aren't really labeled. This is why it is easier to run speaker wire from the dash & pillar speakers to the trunk as they will need to be amplified. Run these speakers on the left side (away from the power wire). I believe my installer wired the pillars and dash to the rear channel as the front channel required a bit more power. Also, the DSP (OEM Amp) is installed on the left quarter panel, making the wiring insanely easy. Your DSP will be discarded after this install.
The factory subwoofer is installed pretty easily as well. You can snip the plug coming out of the factory pigtail (you’ll have a make and a female plug) and wire it to your amp. You only need two of the four wires coming into the subwoofer. I’ll post a picture of how to wire a dual coil subwoofer with only two leads coming out of the amp
Fine Tuning
My installer recommended an Expert 8 CH 32Bit device to basically equalize the frequencies from your phone. You have to play with the settings for your own liking but make sure you’re not pushing your speakers past their limit. I’ll post pics of my calibration. It’s best to leave the tuning on the radio as all in the middle (bass, mid & treble) & fine tune through the Xpert all.
Final Comments
This install is not easy & cheap but 110% worth it. It works pretty well with the factory unit & retains most chines. The only downside is that you will lose the B&O chime & now have a different beep when you press buttons on the radio. Sometimes you also get interference through the pillars (minor ticking sounds). It works well with the park sensors though, your music will get faded when you’re backing up and close to an object. The beeps will now come from the behind the dash instrument panel speakers however. Your phone calls will also work normally. It will be a completely different system.
Having done Car Audio Professional for over 40 years, I applaud your effort, but this is not the way to go about this. First, you cant just replace speakers in this system and it be ok. You are undoing Millions of dollars worth of tuning. And while you say you're retuning it to your liking, you are not even close. To properly retune this thing, you need a RTA, and a full DSP with Crossover, EQ, Time Alignment, and level settings and you need to know how to use it. The amount of stuff you are screwing up, far out weights anything you thought you were correcting. And for those who dont know, louder is not necessarily better, which is what happens when you replace these speakers without proper retuning. You took something that was mediocre and made it much worse.Finally got around to correcting this garbage system Ford calls “premium”. This write up is going to be pretty long so I’ll simplify it as best as I can. Upgrading the B&O is 1000x more expensive than a factory system and a bit more complex because of how the B&O system is laid out.
The Subwoofer
If you want to start with a simple and cheap sound upgrade to make your life easy, I recommend swapping out the subwoofer in the back. You’ll need the Pioneer TS-A250D4, some harness plugs (Red Wolf), Polyfill and sound deadening. There’s a few write ups on this site on how to do it so I’ll link the easiest one to follow. I went the extra mile & wrapped my enclosure in carpet to help reduce rattles.
Subwoofer Install Link
The Cabin Speakers
Ford laid out the B&O as two Pillar tweeters & a dash midrange speaker powered by the ACM (non amplified) & two mid range speakers / woofers on the doors (amplified) alongside two deck coaxials (amplified). Before you do anything, you’ll have to swap out all of these speakers.
I used Pioneer TS-A301TW for the pillars & Kicker 51KSC2704 for the dash and upper door mids (3 drivers). The pillar speakers you have to hot glue to fit & the center dash you should be able to use the bracket supplied with the kickers. I used B&C 6MDN44 6.5”s Mid woofers for the doors (do not use brackets, cut out the B&O speakers and shave them down to fit the B&C drivers). You’ll also have to shave the circular lip ring on the door trim panel since they will touch these drivers and rattle. The upper mid drivers should be installed in the same style (cut the original brackets and solder on to the pins). I used Metra 72-5602 harness pigtails for the B&C driver wiring.
The deck speakers are a little more complex in the sense that you have to remove the plastic trim surrounding the package tray. Be very careful removing this as you can scratch it up due to the rear window defroster plugs. Remove both rear quarter trim pieces and place a cloth rag on each corner of the deck trim. Pry up and it should come out. You have to use the Metra 72-5602 harness pigtails & bracket adapters for the speaker swap. I used JL C1-650X drivers. Like the door trim panels, you have to shave the lips from the deck so it doesn’t make contact with the speaker. Please be advised the deck may rattle after removal/ installation. Be sure to use sound deadening and ensure the trim panel fits right after reinstallation.
Amplifier Wiring
Just like your basic amp install, run power through the right front (make sure you drill the power wire to the positive battery connector, not the BSM sensor) and ground underneath the backseat bracket (sand your grounding surface prior to install) I honestly did not install the PAC unit but I can assume it is very straight forward if you’re experienced in installing 4 channel drivers. It gives you a remote lead and signal for 6 channels. It also plugs in to the wiring of the factory system. The PAC bypass includes three wire harnesses and a knob. I believe one of the harnesses plugs to the amp and the other is for behind the radio (one of the two will fit it). I honestly found it easier to run my own wiring to the back instead of taking apart the radio and running wires through the middle. You’d have to identify which speaker belongs to which pair of wiring as the PAC wires aren't really labeled. This is why it is easier to run speaker wire from the dash & pillar speakers to the trunk as they will need to be amplified. Run these speakers on the left side (away from the power wire). I believe my installer wired the pillars and dash to the rear channel as the front channel required a bit more power. Also, the DSP (OEM Amp) is installed on the left quarter panel, making the wiring insanely easy. Your DSP will be discarded after this install.
The factory subwoofer is installed pretty easily as well. You can snip the plug coming out of the factory pigtail (you’ll have a make and a female plug) and wire it to your amp. You only need two of the four wires coming into the subwoofer. I’ll post a picture of how to wire a dual coil subwoofer with only two leads coming out of the amp
Fine Tuning
My installer recommended an Expert 8 CH 32Bit device to basically equalize the frequencies from your phone. You have to play with the settings for your own liking but make sure you’re not pushing your speakers past their limit. I’ll post pics of my calibration. It’s best to leave the tuning on the radio as all in the middle (bass, mid & treble) & fine tune through the Xpert all.
Final Comments
This install is not easy & cheap but 110% worth it. It works pretty well with the factory unit & retains most chines. The only downside is that you will lose the B&O chime & now have a different beep when you press buttons on the radio. Sometimes you also get interference through the pillars (minor ticking sounds). It works well with the park sensors though, your music will get faded when you’re backing up and close to an object. The beeps will now come from the behind the dash instrument panel speakers however. Your phone calls will also work normally. It will be a completely different system.
I have a DSP you fool lol. I did time alignment, adjusted each speaker to each individual frequency and used an oscilloscope to make sure everything is calibrated. The sound system is designed by B&O not made by them. It’s fords shitty tuning.
