Bleeding Brakes?

[LouG]

I am thinking along the same lines. I don’t see how you could possibly get air bubbles in the fluid at the calipers, which is the most likely place for them, out by actuating the ABS module. The brake system is not a loop where fluid cycles through it; that is the whole reason the brakes work. You push the fluid and it has nowhere to go but to compress the caliper piston. Without opening a bleeder screw and forcing fluid (or air) in or out, I don’t get how the fluid in the caliper is going to get back to the ABS module.

Getting air out of the lines between the reservoir and the ABS module I could see working by actuating the ABS, but I don’t see that working for forcing air in the lines out of the entire system, which is the whole point of a brake bleed.

I agree. I've seen bleeding done by forcing fluid back into the reservoir. But never heard of circulating air bubbles around the system.

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[Neggytive]

The new caliper should already be retracted, so you can pop the existing one off without going into service mode as you don't need to retract the caliper to put new pads in

BUT that is the wrong way to do it as you should be installing new pads on the other side at the same time IMHO so you need to get the other side into service mode.

When you are ready to remove the hydraulic line have a tire valve stem ready and when the hose comes off jam the valve stem in the hose end to seal the line. That will keep you from having to bleed the ABS pump IMHO

When you put the new caliper on and get the hose on with new washers and torqued, put a pan under the caliper and crack the bleeder and let gravity bleed them. It is easier than pumping the crap out of the pedal and and it works. Let is drip while you are doing the other side, just watch the fluid level in the master.

I rarely ever have to do a 2 man bleed operation or get the Mit-Y-Vac out, Gravity bleeding is how we do it on our shop

 

[rustedrotors]

I'd also put as much fluid as you can in the reservior and close the cap. Have the new caliper ready and swap quickly.

ABS purge procedure is common in new cars/trucks. Really only an issue if you run out of fluid, or get air back in the line. Like pushing the caliper piston in without it being bled out.

IF you do get air into the ABS, you will need to run the bleed / purge sequence. And you might have some air back at the calipers to bleed out after that too.

 

[timd38]

I put Baer rotors on my DH and if you remove any of the rear calipers without putting the brakes in service mode, the dash lights up like a Christmas tree. I learned from someone else’s mistake.

 

[thornclaw]

not to plug third party software, but the iphone app store has an app called forscan lite. it is 8 dollars. with that and the obd mx adapter, it is quite easy to put it into service mode

 

[thornclaw]

also,
i suggest using bosch esi6 brake fluid. it is a low viscosity fluid that outperforms motorcraft/pentosin dot4 lv.
esi6 dry/wet boiling point 520/360

motorcraft dry/wet bp 509/338

it is $18 on amazon for a quart

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