If anyone is looking for an easy way to shed about 31 pounds off the front end here you go...

[ThreePedalPlow]

I installed an anti-gravity battery about 2 weeks ago. I just wanted to run it for a while before posting. This is a direct replacement the same size as the OEM battery that weighed 30.8 pounds less than the OEM battery. No issues whatsoever. The factory battery screw down clamp works with it as well. They do recommend charging it before you use it the first time and being it is lithium you have to use a lithium battery charger. I used a slow trickle charger and charged it overnight so it was ready the next day. Make sure you read all the instructions and the Ford manual section on replacing batteries before beginning the install as the vehicle likes to learn the state of charge with doors locked at rest for 8 hours from what I remember. The only downside is that it is expensive. I think I paid about $1,000 for it but it also comes with a restart feature and a small key fob. If your battery ever dies you can jump start the car at the push of a button as it is an intelligent battery that keeps a reserve in case you forget to turn your dome lights off or anything like that. They have different amp hour recommendations depending on your climate but that is all explained well in a video on their website. The model number I used is on top of the battery. I live in the mid-west and the car is garage kept.

OEM:

Anti - Gravity:

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[YamenGT650]

Cool technology… and nice weight saving.
But steep price.

 

[Wiley Marmot]

Nice write up. TY!

 

[sdsteele2]

Forgive my ignorance. If it needs a lithium battery charger for standalone charging, how is the car going to safely charge it?

The battery management system is expecting a lead acid AGM battery, no?

 

[ThreePedalPlow]

Forgive my ignorance. If it needs a lithium battery charger for standalone charging, how is the car going to safely charge it?

The battery management system is expecting a lead acid AGM battery, no?

It has something to do with the way standalone lead acid chargers work.

From their website: Lead-acid chargers will tend to overcharge a lithium battery. Additionally lead-acid chargers often have special modes like Desulfation Modes that can spike the voltage to the battery. This can damage a lithium battery.

As far as the car interpreting the battery type this is also from their website.

 

[Fireracer17]

Thank you for the information I was thinking of ordering one of these also for weight savings and wheels in the future.

 

[roadpilot]

IMHO, unless you're tracking or drag racing your car on a regular basis, there are far better improvements to make for $1,000 than a lighter battery. But, to each thier own!

 

[scainerrt]

Forgive my ignorance. If it needs a lithium battery charger for standalone charging, how is the car going to safely charge it?

The battery management system is expecting a lead acid AGM battery, no?

I have 2 lithium batteries on my side by side and it's nice knowing that I can push a button on my battery and it will automatically have enough juice to start my buggy. I have actually used this function twice already and it worked flawlessly. The ones I have are the Optima orange top.

 

[roadpilot]

I have 2 lithium batteries on my side by side and it's nice knowing that I can push a button on my battery and it will automatically have enough juice to start my buggy. I have actually used this function twice already and it worked flawlessly. The ones I have are the Optima orange top.

I have two non-lithium (each) on both of my SXSs. I also have isolators to keep the accessory battery side from draining the starter side. I've never been stranded and have never needed to push a button when the ACC side got low (e.g., running radio too long with ignition off). I just turn the key - the isolator does its job if/when needed.

 

[sdsteele2]

It has something to do with the way standalone lead acid chargers work.

From their website: Lead-acid chargers will tend to overcharge a lithium battery. Additionally lead-acid chargers often have special modes like Desulfation Modes that can spike the voltage to the battery. This can damage a lithium battery.

As far as the car interpreting the battery type this is also from their website.

Sounds like they have it figured out. My Noco charger has a lithium mode, I wonder if that battery is a good use case. They didn’t list it on their site.

 

[cosmo73]

Terrific weight savings… for a motorcycle maybe. 30 lbs in a 4k pound car will not even be noticeable. And the $1,000 price tag is ridiculous.

To each their own for sure, but I personally could not justify that cost.

 

[ThreePedalPlow]

To everyone that doesn't see the value I'm curious what you think costs less than a $1,000 that also sheds over 30 pounds? A k-member saves about the same amount of weight at $720 but is way more difficult to install and you probably need to pay for an alignment once it's installed. An aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft might save 15 to 20 pounds and costs from $1000 to $2000. A rear seat delete is free and sheds about the same amount of weight but I think those just look bad. I'm thinking Aerospace brakes might be the best bang for buck in weight loss outside of a rear seat delete but I'm not sure how much weight they shed exactly. They cost around $1300 and some of the weight is rotational. Not sure what is out there for seats but I'm not giving up heated and cooled so I never looked into those.

 

[Zig]

To everyone that doesn't see the …

Any noticeable difference, does the front lift easier now or drop less when diving into a corner? Back in the way back some would relocate to the trunk but if this works well enough that hassle may be eliminated.

 

[RLE55]

To everyone that doesn't see the value I'm curious what you think costs less than a $1,000 that also sheds over 30 pounds? A k-member saves about the same amount of weight at $720 but is way more difficult to install and you probably need to pay for an alignment once it's installed. An aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft might save 15 to 20 pounds and costs from $1000 to $2000. A rear seat delete is free and sheds about the same amount of weight but I think those just look bad. I'm thinking Aerospace brakes might be the best bang for buck in weight loss outside of a rear seat delete but I'm not sure how much weight they shed exactly. They cost around $1300 and some of the weight is rotational. Not sure what is out there for seats but I'm not giving up heated and cooled so I never looked into those.

So the question I have is what is your reason for going to a lighter battery? As already stated, if you plan on racing the car then yes, by all means adjust weight as needed. If all the car is going to be is a street car, then what is your benefit of spending approx. 4 times the normal cost for a battery, that usually lasts 4-5 years if not longer.

 

[ThreePedalPlow]

I haven't really done any testing around turns. I'm more of a straight line racer. The old saying is that 100 pounds equals about 15 horsepower which equals about 1/10 of a second in a quarter mile which equals about 1 car length. 31 pounds should buy me about a nose or a fender or whatever you want to call it. Plenty of races are won by that margin. My best 0-60 dropped from 4.3 to 4.2 but I had also added Steeda air filters, removed the carbon traps, opened up the grill air intakes and drained most of the washer fluid between those tests. The DA was the same and I tested in the same spot. Even lowering my launch RPM from 3,800 to 3,200 RPM wasn't enough. It's still spin city even with the 3.55 rear and I have to pedal the car in 1st gear. I used to launch at 3,800 and hook. Throwing some stickier tires on today. Still had the factory continentals on it.

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