S650 Aftermarket Sound System

[Q6543]

@Stangerous

any pointers or specifics on the LC wiring?
specifically what/where you’re tapping into exactly?

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[steveo1960]

Quick question. Are the speakers included with the B&O system an oddball impedance like the Mach 1000 in my 03 GT which has 6 Ohm impedance speakers?

 

[Stangerous]

@Stangerous

any pointers or specifics on the LC wiring?
specifically what/where you’re tapping into exactly?

I bought plug adapters for the factory wiring so I wouldn’t have to cut any wires. Ran those to the LC speaker inputs, then out of the amp to the sub. I drilled two holes in the back of the enclosure for the wires. Hope this helps.

 

[MOTrus2024GT]

I bought plug adapters for the factory wiring so I wouldn’t have to cut any wires. Ran those to the LC speaker inputs, then out of the amp to the sub. I drilled two holes in the back of the enclosure for the wires. Hope this helps.

Did you tap off of the sub wiring or a rear deck speaker? Also, would you mind posting a link to the adapters you purchased? TIA!

 

[Stangerous]

Did you tap off of the sub wiring or a rear deck speaker? Also, would you mind posting a link to the adapters you purchased? TIA!

RED WOLF Door Speaker Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089Q9K9Z6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. I plugged these into the factory sub harnesses and took them to the lc.

 

[Stangerous]

Did you tap off of the sub wiring or a rear deck speaker? Also, would you mind posting a link to the adapters you purchased? TIA!

I know they say they are for Jeep, Chrysler but they work perfect for ours as well. Just FYI

 

[MOTrus2024GT]

I know they say they are for Jeep, Chrysler but they work perfect for ours as well. Just FYI

Thanks! Ordering mine now...

 

[24BlueStang]

Any idea the best way to add in a sub with the 9 speaker system that has an amp? I need more bass and all this new technology is above my old school knowledge of systems lol. I know I need a quality LIC which I plan to get from the local shop that I’ve done a lot of business with over the years but kinda need some tips and advice on what works best. They told me at the shop they have one that talks to the car computer and resets the frequency and stuff that I can tap into the rear speakers instead of running from the front. Any help would be appreciated

 

[jaydub]

To say that the new B&O sound system in the 2024 Mustang GT Premium wasn’t very impressive would be an understatement. I was hoping that Ford stepped it up with all of the new electronic enhancements in the S650 but they did not. This system is basic to say the least and does little to excite you. No DSP and a basic 3 level eq for bass, mids, and highs. It would have been nice to have a separate adjustment for the subwoofer but it does not.

The only positive would be clarity. I did not hear any distortion and/or clipping at any volume. Again, the volume level does little to impress but it’s clear.

Metra, Scosche, PAC Audio, none of the manufactures are making wiring harnesses for the S650 yet. I am sure it won’t be long but as of this post they have nothing. Eventually I would like to replace all of the speakers in the S650 but for now I will just add subs and an amp.

For the most part it’s just like any S550 installation. A few of the trim panels are different but similar enough. One big difference, while not affecting the install, was no more battery box. The new battery is out in the open. See picture below:

I tapped into the factory subwoofer wiring for the input into the AudioControl LC2i Pro Line Output Converter. This will provide the desired low frequencies for the subwoofer amp. The factory sub is a dual voice coil sub with what I thought was left and right inputs. After playing around with fading on the screen and testing with a meter, I discovered that both of the voice coils of the factory subwoofer are feed with the same mono input. What does that mean? It means that you only need to tap into one of the pairs and not both. Here are some pictures of the factory subwoofer.

The bass roll off in the factory B&O system starts at volume level 22. You will hear no increase in bass out of the subwoofer after volume level 22. That is where the AccuBASE feature of the AudioControl LC2i Pro Line Output Converter comes into play. It will fill in the subwoofer bass after volume level 22.

I did not reconnect the factory sub. I just bolted it back into the factory spot so that you wouldn’t see the ugly cut outs in the carpet.

I also placed sound deadening material all around the trunk area to avoid any unwanted rattles and improve overall sound quality.

Here is a picture of the install:

I wish I would have taken more pictures during the install but at the time I was not thinking about writing a thread. Overall, the install was pretty easy with only a few issues.

Important take aways:

• You only need to tap into 1 of the leads feeding the factory dual voice coil subwoofer. Tap into the wiring behind the factory plug so that you can actually remove the factory sub box without affecting your connection.
• Run power and ground just like any S550 install.
• Bass roll off is at volume level 22 on the B&O system.
• Despite all the added sound deadening material, the rear deck lid behind the back seat rattled really bad! I had to resort to stuffing the cavity with scrap pieces of felt to stop.
• The deck lid behind the rear seats is a pain to remove with little room to maneuver. You have to first remove the two side panels between the window and deck lid. The deck lid is slotted and 2 prongs from these panels go into the deck lid. The deck lid also has 3 blue retaining pins holding it to the sheet metal. One left, one right, and one center. Easy enough to access from below but tricky to squeeze and push through. You also need to remove and/or loosen the side panels beside the back seats. This will give you access to remove the seat belt strap from the plastic guides built into the rear deck lid. Once you have all this removed, you can finally slide out the rear deck lid (plastic piece). Be careful when removing the deck lid!!! It will want to catch and snag the wires feeding the rear defroster. I almost pulled mine loose from the window. You can actually remove the wires from the terminals on the window first if needed.

Here is a list of the material used in the install:

Skar Audio SKv2-1500.1D Amplifier

2 Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12 Subwoofers

AudioControl LC2i Pro Line Output Converter w/ Remote

Stinger SSCap2M 2 Farad Digital Capacitor

Stinger SPD512 PRO Series Power Distribution T-Block

Stinger 1/0 Gauge Amp Kit (SK4201)

Dynamat sound deadening material

XS Power D4700 Battery

What enclosure did you use for your subwoofers?

 

[2024 Grey GT]

Did you swap the sub yet? Did it make an improvement???

I plan on just doing a speaker swap. I was pretty unimpressed with the B&O as well, though it's gotten a little better with break-in. Still though, it has paper cones and small magnets.

 

[LoWeLL216]

What enclosure did you use for your subwoofers?

Same question. I also put a box back there, but it's much bigger.

 

[Unknownyacht]

Was anybody able to confirm the speaker wiring in the rear speakers?

I'm assuming it's the two twisted pairs:
Blue/White + Yellow/Green
Brown/Blue + Grey/Brown

Thought I'd ask before tapping them and testing with a multi meter.

Edit:
I went ahead and installed my sub. In case anyone else comes across this in the future, here's my results:
Blue-White = Left speaker +
Yellow-Green = Left speaker -

Brown-Blue = Right speaker +
Gray-Brown = Right speaker -

I used a 9V battery to try and determine the polarity, so if this is incorrect feel free to correct me. Either way, that is how I have it wired into my line output converter and into the amp. Sub seems to be working without issue.

 

[ctumbles]

I went ahead and installed my sub. In case anyone else comes across this in the future, here's my results:
Blue-White = Left speaker +
Yellow-Green = Left speaker -

Brown-Blue = Right speaker +
Gray-Brown = Right speaker -

I used a 9V battery to try and determine the polarity, so if this is incorrect feel free to correct me. Either way, that is how I have it wired into my line output converter and into the amp. Sub seems to be working without issue.

Thanks for posting this. I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram yet specific to the s650. Any idea what that other twisted pair is to? The Grey/Orange Purple/Orange one?

 

[Unknownyacht]

Thanks for posting this. I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram yet specific to the s650. Any idea what that other twisted pair is to? The Grey/Orange Purple/Orange one?

Unfortunately I am not sure. The wire isn't as thick as the two twisted pairs going to the rear speakers, and I didn't pull much more of the tape back to see where it goes. It is similar to the S550 in that the wiring splits in a 'Y' shape. I believe some of the wire(s) goes to the rear camera. Others might go to lights/sensors, but without an official wiring diagram your guess is as good as mine.

 

[jaydub]

To say that the new B&O sound system in the 2024 Mustang GT Premium wasn’t very impressive would be an understatement. I was hoping that Ford stepped it up with all of the new electronic enhancements in the S650 but they did not. This system is basic to say the least and does little to excite you. No DSP and a basic 3 level eq for bass, mids, and highs. It would have been nice to have a separate adjustment for the subwoofer but it does not.

The only positive would be clarity. I did not hear any distortion and/or clipping at any volume. Again, the volume level does little to impress but it’s clear.

Metra, Scosche, PAC Audio, none of the manufactures are making wiring harnesses for the S650 yet. I am sure it won’t be long but as of this post they have nothing. Eventually I would like to replace all of the speakers in the S650 but for now I will just add subs and an amp.

For the most part it’s just like any S550 installation. A few of the trim panels are different but similar enough. One big difference, while not affecting the install, was no more battery box. The new battery is out in the open. See picture below:

I tapped into the factory subwoofer wiring for the input into the AudioControl LC2i Pro Line Output Converter. This will provide the desired low frequencies for the subwoofer amp. The factory sub is a dual voice coil sub with what I thought was left and right inputs. After playing around with fading on the screen and testing with a meter, I discovered that both of the voice coils of the factory subwoofer are feed with the same mono input. What does that mean? It means that you only need to tap into one of the pairs and not both. Here are some pictures of the factory subwoofer.

The bass roll off in the factory B&O system starts at volume level 22. You will hear no increase in bass out of the subwoofer after volume level 22. That is where the AccuBASE feature of the AudioControl LC2i Pro Line Output Converter comes into play. It will fill in the subwoofer bass after volume level 22.

I did not reconnect the factory sub. I just bolted it back into the factory spot so that you wouldn’t see the ugly cut outs in the carpet.

I also placed sound deadening material all around the trunk area to avoid any unwanted rattles and improve overall sound quality.

Here is a picture of the install:

I wish I would have taken more pictures during the install but at the time I was not thinking about writing a thread. Overall, the install was pretty easy with only a few issues.

Important take aways:

• You only need to tap into 1 of the leads feeding the factory dual voice coil subwoofer. Tap into the wiring behind the factory plug so that you can actually remove the factory sub box without affecting your connection.
• Run power and ground just like any S550 install.
• Bass roll off is at volume level 22 on the B&O system.
• Despite all the added sound deadening material, the rear deck lid behind the back seat rattled really bad! I had to resort to stuffing the cavity with scrap pieces of felt to stop.
• The deck lid behind the rear seats is a pain to remove with little room to maneuver. You have to first remove the two side panels between the window and deck lid. The deck lid is slotted and 2 prongs from these panels go into the deck lid. The deck lid also has 3 blue retaining pins holding it to the sheet metal. One left, one right, and one center. Easy enough to access from below but tricky to squeeze and push through. You also need to remove and/or loosen the side panels beside the back seats. This will give you access to remove the seat belt strap from the plastic guides built into the rear deck lid. Once you have all this removed, you can finally slide out the rear deck lid (plastic piece). Be careful when removing the deck lid!!! It will want to catch and snag the wires feeding the rear defroster. I almost pulled mine loose from the window. You can actually remove the wires from the terminals on the window first if needed.

Here is a list of the material used in the install:

Skar Audio SKv2-1500.1D Amplifier

2 Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12 Subwoofers

AudioControl LC2i Pro Line Output Converter w/ Remote

Stinger SSCap2M 2 Farad Digital Capacitor

Stinger SPD512 PRO Series Power Distribution T-Block

Stinger 1/0 Gauge Amp Kit (SK4201)

Dynamat sound deadening material

XS Power D4700 Battery

Where did you pull 12v power for the LC2 from? and did you run your 12v power for the Amp under the carpet and trim, and if so, where did you enter the engine bay to get to the battery?

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