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Thoughts on synthetic blend vs full synthetic engine oil?

roadpilot

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You'd like to prove this how?
It's like gravity - everyone who has been around internal combustion engines knows this.

Is this like the "don't change your automatic transmission fluid because you're just going to loosen stuff up and ruin the transmission"?
I warned you about opening your mouth and proving your foolishness.

Unlike your engine, an automatic transmission is a sealed system. Nothing gets in and out, and there is no combustion taking place.

Again, I ask: Is yours genetic trait or a learned behavior?

You're just babbling about theories that have nothing to do with an S650 Mustang.
Your level of incompetence knows no bounds. Knowlege is fast, but you seem to consistently outrun it.

How many engines have you 'flushed' and then had a leak start?
Plenty. I've been working on ICEs for well over four decades.
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robvas

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It's like gravity - everyone who has been around internal combustion engines knows this.


I warned you about opening your mouth and proving your foolishness.

Unlike your engine, an automatic transmission is a sealed system. Nothing gets in and out, and there is no combustion taking place.

Again, I ask: Is yours genetic trait or a learned behavior?

Your level of incompetence knows no bounds. Knowlege is fast, but you seem to consistently outrun it.

Plenty. I've been working on ICEs for well over four decades.
So nothing except weak insults. High-five.
 

FarNorth

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Well, to add fuel to this discussion; I donā€™t change my oil at the 1000 as you all seem to do, I donā€™t believe it breaks in properly at an early change like that, I just change the filter at 5000kms and run the oil to 10,000kms. Full break In: driving nice, varying the speed and topping up. I use synthetic blend always from a major brand usually Pennzoil.
Iā€™ve done this my entire life on cars Iā€™ve owned and never had an issue.

I also use Rotella Diesel oil in my Honda Goldwing as it has a wet clutch. Never had an issue there either. After 140,000kms it still doesnā€™t burn oil or smoke and continues to run great.

Some think Iā€™m weird. For me this always works.
 

roadpilot

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roadpilot

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Well, to add fuel to this discussion; I donā€™t change my oil at the 1000 as you all seem to do, I donā€™t believe it breaks in properly at an early change like that, I just change the filter at 5000kms and run the oil to 10,000kms. Full break In: driving nice, varying the speed and topping up. I use synthetic blend always from a major brand usually Pennzoil.
Iā€™ve done this my entire life on cars Iā€™ve owned and never had an issue.

I also use Rotella Diesel oil in my Honda Goldwing as it has a wet clutch. Never had an issue there either. After 140,000kms it still doesnā€™t burn oil or smoke and continues to run great.

Some think Iā€™m weird. For me this always works.
Honestly, I find nothing wrong with your approach. While I did the first oil change for *this* engine at 1,600 miles, I've had a dozen and a half new vehicles in the past couple of decades alone, and most of them I've simply done the first oil change at the normal interval (IOLM followed). I, too, have had zero oil related issues in any of my vehicles.

On the cycle: Ran the Rotella T6 in most, if not all, of my motorcycles over the years. Just about everybody I rode with did the same.
 

Zig

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On the cycle: Ran the Rotella T6 in most, if not all, of my motorcycles over the years. Just about everybody I rode with did the same.
Syn3 for me.
 

FarNorth

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Honestly, I find nothing wrong with your approach. While I did the first oil change for *this* engine at 1,600 miles, I've had a dozen and a half new vehicles in the past couple of decades alone, and most of them I've simply done the first oil change at the normal interval (IOLM followed). I, too, have had zero oil related issues in any of my vehicles.

On the cycle: Ran the Rotella T6 in most, if not all, of my motorcycles over the years. Just about everybody I rode with did the same.
Everyone I know uses very expensive oil, maybe Iā€™m just cheap but when a cheaper solution works why not save a few bucks. It seems to me that folks paying big bucks for premium oil are just saving the vehicle for the next owner as most people trade up in 4 to 5 years. Itā€™s like computers, if itā€™s more than 4 years old itā€™s obsolete.
There are some that keep their vehicles for eons, then I can see using a better oil. In 4 years I will want a new Ponyā€¦. as long as it ainā€™t electric.šŸ„¹
 

BrianJ77

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I found this today and thought it was pertinent to post here. Following the OLM, according to this technician, resulted in a lot of sludge in this Coyote. I know there are a lot of debates about how often to change oil. I think more frequently than 7500 miles of a pretty good idea. Of course he does mention that this engine may have extensive idling, but shouldn't the OLM adjust for that? Anyway....here's the video:

 

roadpilot

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Idling for 8-10 hours a day drastically changes how often you should change your oil. It's called severe service. It's covered in the owner's manual for this truck.
 

Zig

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Idling for 8-10 hours a day drastically changes how often you should change your oil. It's called severe service. It's covered in the owner's manual for this truck.
Idling for 8-10 hours per day must have a faulty asā€¦.s
 

roadpilot

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Idling for 8-10 hours per day must have a faulty asā€¦.s
šŸ˜†

Seriously ... work trucks, police cruisers, taxi cabs ... there are plenty of vehicles that idle more than they are driven.
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