5.0ALM
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I've always been a l-believe-it-when-I-see-it kinda guy.
And I've always be sceptical of ceramic coatings.
Sceptical of anything that uses marketing weasel words, and "ceramic" appears to be a good example of this in the detailing world these days. Ceramic this, ceramic that.
Although being subscribed to 12 detailing channels on Youtube, I've hardly watched any of their content from any of them since the Pan Awards disaster.
Who do you trust when they all share the same underlying agenda?
But, Hold My Beer is a rare exception.
Why I'm still choosing Wax over Ceramic Coating in 2025
After watching this, I'm really looking forward to trying out Collinite 845 wax on my cars.
And I've always be sceptical of ceramic coatings.
Sceptical of anything that uses marketing weasel words, and "ceramic" appears to be a good example of this in the detailing world these days. Ceramic this, ceramic that.
Although being subscribed to 12 detailing channels on Youtube, I've hardly watched any of their content from any of them since the Pan Awards disaster.
Who do you trust when they all share the same underlying agenda?
But, Hold My Beer is a rare exception.
Why I'm still choosing Wax over Ceramic Coating in 2025
After watching this, I'm really looking forward to trying out Collinite 845 wax on my cars.
xrs
Well-Known Member
I will have to watch that video, something that popped up for me on Mustang Motorsport latest YouTube that dropped last night was moving the wiper arms to clean the screen but more importantly stop you from scratching the bonnet, I don't do this because I worry about the wiper motor, should I be worried?
Last edited:
OP
OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #109
I get it, I actually wish I'd waxed the S650 instead of coating it. The only area I'd insist on coating would be the wheels, it makes cleaning so much quicker and easier.I've always been a l-believe-it-when-I-see-it kinda guy.
And I've always be sceptical of ceramic coatings.
Sceptical of anything that uses marketing weasel words, and "ceramic" appears to be a good example of this in the detailing world these days. Ceramic this, ceramic that.
Although being subscribed to 12 detailing channels on Youtube, I've hardly watched any of their content from any of them since the Pan Awards disaster.
Who do you trust when they all share the same underlying agenda?
But, Hold My Beer is a rare exception.
Why I'm still choosing Wax over Ceramic Coating in 2025
After watching this, I'm really looking forward to trying out Collinite 845 wax on my cars.
OP
OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #110
Because of the dry and windy conditions this summer, it doesn't take long for the cars to be covered in film of dust. Throw a light shower into the mix, which happed to the Ranger while I was cleaning the Mustang last week, well the car was looking filthy.
Today, I decided on an Ethos theme. These products are made by B&B Blending for Ethos, which is under the same umbrella as Adam's. I'm a big fan of Adam's products, they just seem to work with my methods and our climate. No wonder I find Ethos products so agreeable.
After cleaning the wheels and tyres with Brake Buster, I started the Ethos theme by using their Ceramic Shampoo.......................
Ethos Ceramic Shampoo | Enhance Your Detailing | Detailing Shed
Car Shampoo | Ceramic Car Shampoo - Ceramic Car Wash Soap
After the wash, I used Ethos Pro Shine (Finish Shine) for the paint, door jambs and tray. I've said this before, but they need to back off on the colorant as it's a little too rich and has the potential to stain. It's otherwise simple to use and produces some nice gloss and slickness.
Ethos Pro Shine Ceramic Detail Spray | Detailing Shed
Ceramic Detail Spray - Quick Detailer, Streak Free Formula!
For the interior, I went with Ethos Interior Detailer. This product is closer to P&S Swift in that it offers more dressing potential when compared to something like InnerQD or Pilot. I really like the coconut scent too.
Ethos Interior Detailer for Leather, Plastic & Vinyl Detailing Shed
Car Interior Detailer Cleaner & Conditioner - Protect + Preserve
From there, I finished off a bottle of Gyeon Q2M Glass, then dressed the tyres with the excellent 3D Ceramic Matte Tire.
Today, I decided on an Ethos theme. These products are made by B&B Blending for Ethos, which is under the same umbrella as Adam's. I'm a big fan of Adam's products, they just seem to work with my methods and our climate. No wonder I find Ethos products so agreeable.
After cleaning the wheels and tyres with Brake Buster, I started the Ethos theme by using their Ceramic Shampoo.......................
Ethos Ceramic Shampoo | Enhance Your Detailing | Detailing Shed
Car Shampoo | Ceramic Car Shampoo - Ceramic Car Wash Soap
After the wash, I used Ethos Pro Shine (Finish Shine) for the paint, door jambs and tray. I've said this before, but they need to back off on the colorant as it's a little too rich and has the potential to stain. It's otherwise simple to use and produces some nice gloss and slickness.
Ethos Pro Shine Ceramic Detail Spray | Detailing Shed
Ceramic Detail Spray - Quick Detailer, Streak Free Formula!
For the interior, I went with Ethos Interior Detailer. This product is closer to P&S Swift in that it offers more dressing potential when compared to something like InnerQD or Pilot. I really like the coconut scent too.
Ethos Interior Detailer for Leather, Plastic & Vinyl Detailing Shed
Car Interior Detailer Cleaner & Conditioner - Protect + Preserve
From there, I finished off a bottle of Gyeon Q2M Glass, then dressed the tyres with the excellent 3D Ceramic Matte Tire.
OP
OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #111
In the box seat today, the mighty XR8!
A question I've been asked a few times over the years, how do I clean the intricate grills on a modern vehicle? Front end designs have only gotten more and more complex over the years, to the point where they can be a nightmare to clean properly. I'd say this is even worse when car companies fill in the front grills to improve aero properties, meaning these fake grills allow bugs and grime to accumulate rather than passing through.
Compounding the issue, these areas are hard to apply protection to...............unless you get off on using a Q-Tip to coat each and every grill opening. Despite what you might thing, even I wouldn't find that a fun time.
Now in the XR8's case, I wasn't needing to remove bugs or caked on road grime, rather a light buildup created over time. However, the treatment would be the same. After an initial rinse, I applied Koch Chemie Green Star APC mixed at 6:1, which is a relatively strong dilution. You could also use something like Koch Chemie Insect & Dirt Remover or Carpro Bug Out as these do a similar job but better target bug enzymes.
From here, agitate with a brush. In this case, the XR8 has a matte finish on the grills surrounded with a gloss accent. You could use either a boars hair or synthetic brush here, but I went with the gentler synthetic version. If your grill has a gloss finish, I'd stick with the synthetic to be on the safe side. What I like about Green Star is how it lathers up beautifully when agitated with a brush.
After a rinse, you have a few options in terms of enhancement and protection. Obviously, the best solution would be to use a spray sealant or ceramic coating, but that will be extremely time consuming. In the past, I've used Autoglym Instant Show Shine, which is an aerosol product that can be used on matte, painted and glossy plastics.
Another option would be an aerosol trim dressing such as P&S No Rub or 3D Instant Shine. However, you would only use these on unpainted plastics.
P&S No Rub Aerosol Coating | Car Supplies Warehouse – Car Supplies Warehouse
Instant Shine Trim, Vinyl and Plastic Spray | 3D Car Care
However, today I simply used Carpro Hydr02 to quickly and effortlessly coat and dress the grills. Spray on, rinse off, job done!
I also decided to give Armour Detail Supply Ghost a try on the XR8's tyres. This meant some deep cleaning to prepare the sidewalls, starting with Capro ReTyre during the wash.
ARMOUR Detail Supply Ghost Tire Sealant -Durability up to 3 months - Detailing Shed
Armour Detail - Ghost - Tire Sealant | The Rag Company
Once the wheel and tyres were blown dry, I grabbed one of my favorite products to ensure the sidewalls were totally clean of any remaining dressing and chemical residue. You can also use mineral spirits to do this job, but I like the unorthodox use of Tarminator.
Stoner Tarminator Tar & Sap Remover 295ml
Stoner Tarminator - 10oz (Aerosol) | Car Supplies Warehouse – Car Supplies Warehouse
The traditional advice when deep cleaning tyres has been to repeatedly apply, scrub and rinse with a tyre cleaner until the product no longer turns brown. However, even with the use of a powerful tyre cleaner and the product not turning brown, there will often be something still on the sidewalls, as shown above. Although I will say that this is very dependent on the tyre brand and tyre model.
With the sidewalls totally clean, I then applied ADS Ghost using a foam applicator pad. In this case, I only applied a single layer, but you can add additional layers 10-minutes apart if desired.
You can see some of the blue tracer in this image, which quickly dissipates as the product cures.
I've been extremely impressed with this product. It can be a little glossy on certain tyres, but on these Dunlop's, the finish is simply perfect with juuuust the right amount of enhancement. Over the longer term, Ghost is proving to be quite capable of repelling dust and grime, which means subsequent cleaning is simply a case of rinsing and giving a light scrub with car soap. Afterwards a wash, I've been giving the tyres a very light wipe over with Tire+ to refresh the finish.
A question I've been asked a few times over the years, how do I clean the intricate grills on a modern vehicle? Front end designs have only gotten more and more complex over the years, to the point where they can be a nightmare to clean properly. I'd say this is even worse when car companies fill in the front grills to improve aero properties, meaning these fake grills allow bugs and grime to accumulate rather than passing through.
Compounding the issue, these areas are hard to apply protection to...............unless you get off on using a Q-Tip to coat each and every grill opening. Despite what you might thing, even I wouldn't find that a fun time.
Now in the XR8's case, I wasn't needing to remove bugs or caked on road grime, rather a light buildup created over time. However, the treatment would be the same. After an initial rinse, I applied Koch Chemie Green Star APC mixed at 6:1, which is a relatively strong dilution. You could also use something like Koch Chemie Insect & Dirt Remover or Carpro Bug Out as these do a similar job but better target bug enzymes.
From here, agitate with a brush. In this case, the XR8 has a matte finish on the grills surrounded with a gloss accent. You could use either a boars hair or synthetic brush here, but I went with the gentler synthetic version. If your grill has a gloss finish, I'd stick with the synthetic to be on the safe side. What I like about Green Star is how it lathers up beautifully when agitated with a brush.
After a rinse, you have a few options in terms of enhancement and protection. Obviously, the best solution would be to use a spray sealant or ceramic coating, but that will be extremely time consuming. In the past, I've used Autoglym Instant Show Shine, which is an aerosol product that can be used on matte, painted and glossy plastics.
Another option would be an aerosol trim dressing such as P&S No Rub or 3D Instant Shine. However, you would only use these on unpainted plastics.
P&S No Rub Aerosol Coating | Car Supplies Warehouse – Car Supplies Warehouse
Instant Shine Trim, Vinyl and Plastic Spray | 3D Car Care
However, today I simply used Carpro Hydr02 to quickly and effortlessly coat and dress the grills. Spray on, rinse off, job done!
I also decided to give Armour Detail Supply Ghost a try on the XR8's tyres. This meant some deep cleaning to prepare the sidewalls, starting with Capro ReTyre during the wash.
ARMOUR Detail Supply Ghost Tire Sealant -Durability up to 3 months - Detailing Shed
Armour Detail - Ghost - Tire Sealant | The Rag Company
Once the wheel and tyres were blown dry, I grabbed one of my favorite products to ensure the sidewalls were totally clean of any remaining dressing and chemical residue. You can also use mineral spirits to do this job, but I like the unorthodox use of Tarminator.
Stoner Tarminator Tar & Sap Remover 295ml
Stoner Tarminator - 10oz (Aerosol) | Car Supplies Warehouse – Car Supplies Warehouse
The traditional advice when deep cleaning tyres has been to repeatedly apply, scrub and rinse with a tyre cleaner until the product no longer turns brown. However, even with the use of a powerful tyre cleaner and the product not turning brown, there will often be something still on the sidewalls, as shown above. Although I will say that this is very dependent on the tyre brand and tyre model.
With the sidewalls totally clean, I then applied ADS Ghost using a foam applicator pad. In this case, I only applied a single layer, but you can add additional layers 10-minutes apart if desired.
You can see some of the blue tracer in this image, which quickly dissipates as the product cures.
I've been extremely impressed with this product. It can be a little glossy on certain tyres, but on these Dunlop's, the finish is simply perfect with juuuust the right amount of enhancement. Over the longer term, Ghost is proving to be quite capable of repelling dust and grime, which means subsequent cleaning is simply a case of rinsing and giving a light scrub with car soap. Afterwards a wash, I've been giving the tyres a very light wipe over with Tire+ to refresh the finish.
OP
OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #112
Wash day for the XR8 (again), which was to be rotated back under cover and swapping places with the Mustang.
I'm slowly getting more and more comfortable using AMMO Hydrate, which seems to be playing very well with Wolfgang DGPS.
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC AU
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC
This is a classic case of when using the "wrong" towel can lead to unfavorable results or user experience. In all but one occasion, I have used Hydrate with the twist-loop TRC FTW towels. Now, I say "wrong" in that this towel is "wrong" for me because I have never loved these things, they are just too grabby and tend to bunch up in my hands. And yet, most people love this towel, be it for use as intended (glass), for spray sealant application or as a small drying aid towel. About the only thing I like them for is wiping the giant instrument/infotainment screen with glass cleaner in the Mustang.
Premium Microfiber Towel: The FTW Twisted Loop Drying Towel - Detailing Shed
FTW Twist Loop Microfiber Detailing and Glass Towel | The Rag Company
However, when I have teamed Hydrate with the Platinum Pluffle, my user experience with this product has been exceptional. I soak one towel with water and wring out till just damp, apply one or two "lines" of Hydrate to the towel and work it over a section, then swap to a dry towel to level off any remaining residue. Sadly, TRC have discontinued this towel, although there is still plenty of stock remaining in Australia. In this case, I like the 40 x 40cm size.
Platinum Pluffle Hybrid Weave Microfiber Wash Towel - Detailing Shed
The Rag Company Platinum Pluffle Premium Drying Microfibre – The Detail Store
The Rag Company - Platinum Pluffle Hybrid Weave Microfiber Towel 40cm – Prime Finish Car Care
Some US retailers still have it -
Plush Waffle Weave Waterless Towel 2.0 - Ultra Absorbent Microfiber Towels for Rinseless Wash – Obsessed Garage
The Rag Company - Platinum Pluffle - Detailer's Domain
If there was one change I'd make to Hydrate, it would be to add a more pleasant scent as it has a very unusual aroma to it. Although Larry has chosen quite subtle, masculine scent profiles across most of the range.
I'm slowly getting more and more comfortable using AMMO Hydrate, which seems to be playing very well with Wolfgang DGPS.
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC AU
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC
This is a classic case of when using the "wrong" towel can lead to unfavorable results or user experience. In all but one occasion, I have used Hydrate with the twist-loop TRC FTW towels. Now, I say "wrong" in that this towel is "wrong" for me because I have never loved these things, they are just too grabby and tend to bunch up in my hands. And yet, most people love this towel, be it for use as intended (glass), for spray sealant application or as a small drying aid towel. About the only thing I like them for is wiping the giant instrument/infotainment screen with glass cleaner in the Mustang.
Premium Microfiber Towel: The FTW Twisted Loop Drying Towel - Detailing Shed
FTW Twist Loop Microfiber Detailing and Glass Towel | The Rag Company
However, when I have teamed Hydrate with the Platinum Pluffle, my user experience with this product has been exceptional. I soak one towel with water and wring out till just damp, apply one or two "lines" of Hydrate to the towel and work it over a section, then swap to a dry towel to level off any remaining residue. Sadly, TRC have discontinued this towel, although there is still plenty of stock remaining in Australia. In this case, I like the 40 x 40cm size.
Platinum Pluffle Hybrid Weave Microfiber Wash Towel - Detailing Shed
The Rag Company Platinum Pluffle Premium Drying Microfibre – The Detail Store
The Rag Company - Platinum Pluffle Hybrid Weave Microfiber Towel 40cm – Prime Finish Car Care
Some US retailers still have it -
Plush Waffle Weave Waterless Towel 2.0 - Ultra Absorbent Microfiber Towels for Rinseless Wash – Obsessed Garage
The Rag Company - Platinum Pluffle - Detailer's Domain
If there was one change I'd make to Hydrate, it would be to add a more pleasant scent as it has a very unusual aroma to it. Although Larry has chosen quite subtle, masculine scent profiles across most of the range.
DevilDog
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DFB5.0, I have a question for you. Do you ever sleep? 
Bikeman315
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OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #116
Yesterday I went on a day trip to Mitchelton Winery for my sister's birthday. I don't drink, so I wasn't there to sample the wares other than lunch at The Muse restaurant.
https://www.mitchelton.com.au/pages/muse-restaurant
Having been there a number of times in recent years, what interests me most when visiting this venue is the work put into the grounds, which consists of manicured gardens blending seamlessly into the native backdrop and riverbank. I particularly love how they have used hedging cut at apposing angles to the buildings they flank, as if they are part of the architecture.
Being a long weekend, the place was packed with well healed, toffee nosed Melbournians, most covered in fake tan and swimming in perfume. Oh honey, my tan is all natural. I'd make some pot shot at the carpark full of Audi's, BMW's and Porsche's, but my sister arrived in a Volvo XC60 and me in a Jaguar!
Taking the Jaguar was twofold. One, it was a chance to get some miles on it before rotating it back into storage, including a few Italian Tune-Up moments as well. Two, it gave me an excuse to wash it. 
Surprisingly, there was very little bug strike to deal with, just some dust from the gravel carpark. Tyres were cleaned with Brake Buster, followed by Reset for the wheels and body. Drying Aid was ADS Amplify, Stoners for the glass and InnerQD for the interior and leather. For the tyres, I decided to give them a deep clean with mineral spirits, then applied Angelwax Elixir, then some Bead Maker for the wheels, which I find makes wheels pop and shimmer on the move!
Back to spec, the Jag then traded places with Big Blue, back home for the first time since late January.
Before returning home, I took the XR6 for a bit of a drive around the outskirts of town to stretch its legs. Of course, every time I get back into this car, it takes a little while to reacclimatize to the awkward driving position, which is so pronounced coming from the Jaguar's super-low seating position and how the cabin wraps around you. Also coming from the Jag, the big Falcon feels so heavy, where the Jaguar is agile and pointy in the front end.
But then on the flipside of that, the big Falcon is so effortless to drive. The Jag's 2.0 EcoBoost certainly needs the short gearing of the 8-speed auto to keep it on the boil, whereas the 4.0 inline 6 will do the same job without breaking 2000 rpm. Looking at the numbers, despite the Falcon being nearly 200 kg heavier and down two ratios over the Jag, capacity and torque do their thing and ensure the XR6 is faster.
https://www.mitchelton.com.au/pages/muse-restaurant
Having been there a number of times in recent years, what interests me most when visiting this venue is the work put into the grounds, which consists of manicured gardens blending seamlessly into the native backdrop and riverbank. I particularly love how they have used hedging cut at apposing angles to the buildings they flank, as if they are part of the architecture.
Being a long weekend, the place was packed with well healed, toffee nosed Melbournians, most covered in fake tan and swimming in perfume. Oh honey, my tan is all natural. I'd make some pot shot at the carpark full of Audi's, BMW's and Porsche's, but my sister arrived in a Volvo XC60 and me in a Jaguar!
Taking the Jaguar was twofold. One, it was a chance to get some miles on it before rotating it back into storage, including a few Italian Tune-Up moments as well.
Two, it gave me an excuse to wash it.
Surprisingly, there was very little bug strike to deal with, just some dust from the gravel carpark. Tyres were cleaned with Brake Buster, followed by Reset for the wheels and body. Drying Aid was ADS Amplify, Stoners for the glass and InnerQD for the interior and leather. For the tyres, I decided to give them a deep clean with mineral spirits, then applied Angelwax Elixir, then some Bead Maker for the wheels, which I find makes wheels pop and shimmer on the move!
Back to spec, the Jag then traded places with Big Blue, back home for the first time since late January.
Before returning home, I took the XR6 for a bit of a drive around the outskirts of town to stretch its legs. Of course, every time I get back into this car, it takes a little while to reacclimatize to the awkward driving position, which is so pronounced coming from the Jaguar's super-low seating position and how the cabin wraps around you. Also coming from the Jag, the big Falcon feels so heavy, where the Jaguar is agile and pointy in the front end.
But then on the flipside of that, the big Falcon is so effortless to drive. The Jag's 2.0 EcoBoost certainly needs the short gearing of the 8-speed auto to keep it on the boil, whereas the 4.0 inline 6 will do the same job without breaking 2000 rpm. Looking at the numbers, despite the Falcon being nearly 200 kg heavier and down two ratios over the Jag, capacity and torque do their thing and ensure the XR6 is faster.
OP
OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #118
Air Compressor Oil Change
I was given this Kincrome air compressor about 10-years ago. These units were specific to the Australian market, going on sale in 2011 via a partnership with the Italian manufacturer FIAC. Mine is the 2.5 HP 50-litre unit with a twin piston cast iron cylinder, but they also did a larger 100-litre 3 HP version as well. Kincrome has since discontinued these units and no longer offer air compressors.
Changing the oil on this unit has been on the "one day" list for a while now. Kincrome suggested an oil change "within the first 100 hours of duty". I wouldn't say this compressor has done a lot of work, initially it was used for tyre inflation and a blow gun, but in recent years, its been powering a Tornador and a pneumatic Rupes polisher, both drawing a lot of air and running the motor and pump quite a lot. Even then, an oil change is probably overkill......................but that's my MO.
First of all, I gave the whole thing a good wash. At one point, I had stored my battery powered Stihl MSA 140C chainsaw on top of the fan housing..................which doing what chainsaws do, it leaked bar oil all over the compressor. I wanted that off! My go-to for machinery cleaning is Bilt Hamber Surfex, which basically melts away oil and grease. After some brush work where required, I rinsed with the pressure washer and applied Hydr02. A quick blow off using the EGO and it was time for the oil change.
While these have a drain plug at the bottom of the block, the location of the drain would end up making a giant mess.................which not my MO. Instead, I used my small oil extractor to suck the old oil out through the filler.
Briggs & Stratton 5430K Oil Extractor Pump, 1.6-Liter | eBay
Briggs & Stratton Oil Siphon Kit 5430K, SP00001 – Power Mowers
I went with Amsoil synthetic compressor oil. No quantity figure is provided by Kincrome, or even a dipstick. Instead, you fill with fluid while watching the sight glass on the side of the block. In the end, I put about 500ml back into it.
Amsoil SAE 40W/ISO 100 Compressor Oil 946mL Bottle PCKQT | eBay
The oil that came out was perfectly acceptable, but I see no harm in overserving tools.
I was given this Kincrome air compressor about 10-years ago. These units were specific to the Australian market, going on sale in 2011 via a partnership with the Italian manufacturer FIAC. Mine is the 2.5 HP 50-litre unit with a twin piston cast iron cylinder, but they also did a larger 100-litre 3 HP version as well. Kincrome has since discontinued these units and no longer offer air compressors.
Changing the oil on this unit has been on the "one day" list for a while now. Kincrome suggested an oil change "within the first 100 hours of duty". I wouldn't say this compressor has done a lot of work, initially it was used for tyre inflation and a blow gun, but in recent years, its been powering a Tornador and a pneumatic Rupes polisher, both drawing a lot of air and running the motor and pump quite a lot. Even then, an oil change is probably overkill......................but that's my MO.
First of all, I gave the whole thing a good wash. At one point, I had stored my battery powered Stihl MSA 140C chainsaw on top of the fan housing..................which doing what chainsaws do, it leaked bar oil all over the compressor. I wanted that off! My go-to for machinery cleaning is Bilt Hamber Surfex, which basically melts away oil and grease. After some brush work where required, I rinsed with the pressure washer and applied Hydr02. A quick blow off using the EGO and it was time for the oil change.
While these have a drain plug at the bottom of the block, the location of the drain would end up making a giant mess.................which not my MO. Instead, I used my small oil extractor to suck the old oil out through the filler.
Briggs & Stratton 5430K Oil Extractor Pump, 1.6-Liter | eBay
Briggs & Stratton Oil Siphon Kit 5430K, SP00001 – Power Mowers
I went with Amsoil synthetic compressor oil. No quantity figure is provided by Kincrome, or even a dipstick. Instead, you fill with fluid while watching the sight glass on the side of the block. In the end, I put about 500ml back into it.
Amsoil SAE 40W/ISO 100 Compressor Oil 946mL Bottle PCKQT | eBay
The oil that came out was perfectly acceptable, but I see no harm in overserving tools.
OP
OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #120
Something completely foreign was falling from the sky today............... a clear liquid called rain. It was a very dry summer, as has been the start to autumn, everything is crispy brown and super dusty. The rain will hopefully green things up and put some freshness in the air.
So, a wet day meant getting started on a little project I've been plotting for a week now. You know how it goes, to move ONE thing means having to move EVERYTHING.
That one thing being the fridge, which I wanted to move to gain space on the workbench. With just about every inch of floorspace being used, and the need for a power point, the only place for the fridge was to say on this shelving unit. That meant moving the two upper shelves up a few pegs to accommodate the height of the fridge.
I had to cut two pieces of timber to add some stability for the fridge, which tended to wobble on the thin shelf material. On these long-span units, the shelf cladding is actually quite thin, which is fine for storage but not ideal for a workbench...................which is the clue as to what this project is about. Also note I've moved the signs around too.
Ignoring the backpack blower, I now have some extra bench space to work on. The next step involves some carpentry...............which I'm really looking forward to, I love working with timber.
So, a wet day meant getting started on a little project I've been plotting for a week now. You know how it goes, to move ONE thing means having to move EVERYTHING.
That one thing being the fridge, which I wanted to move to gain space on the workbench. With just about every inch of floorspace being used, and the need for a power point, the only place for the fridge was to say on this shelving unit. That meant moving the two upper shelves up a few pegs to accommodate the height of the fridge.
I had to cut two pieces of timber to add some stability for the fridge, which tended to wobble on the thin shelf material. On these long-span units, the shelf cladding is actually quite thin, which is fine for storage but not ideal for a workbench...................which is the clue as to what this project is about. Also note I've moved the signs around too.
Ignoring the backpack blower, I now have some extra bench space to work on. The next step involves some carpentry...............which I'm really looking forward to, I love working with timber.
Sponsored
