First oil change dealer put wrong engine oil.

[rijndael]

So strange, my two different 2016 mustang GTs both had 5W-30 in the manual.

II checked a few manuals for the years, some are 20w and others are 30w. Here's the currently available manual for a 2018, v3:

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...-Owners-Manual-version-3_om_EN-US_03_2018.pdf

Regular is 5w-20 and Track Use is 5w-30.
Pages 299 - 301. 299 shows the header for the 5.0 and the below pic is from 301.

The 2019 manua, 5w-20:
https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2019-Ford-Mustang-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_01_2019.pdf

The 2020 manual, 5w-20:
https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2020-Ford-Mustang-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_12_2019.pdf

The 2021 shows a move to 5w-30: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2021-Ford-Mustang-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_03_2021.pdf

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[noac]

Dealerships are terrible. Worse than drive in style “Jiffy Lube” type places. My advice, if doing it yourself if not feasible….establish a relationship with a Jiffy Lube type place near you. Here are some key points on Doing this…..

1) get to know the guys by BS a bit and stay with your car out in the lane if possible.

2) tip dude down below $10 and ask him to wipe off any spills, etc

3) before you pull in….while you are outside before you enter the bay tell them what you want and tell them not to use fender protectors…..when you get inside say this again and ask them to just be careful, give them $10 tip…those big rubber fender protectors do more harm than good

4) bring your own Motorcraft filter, and you own oil if you want

5) verify they are using the correct oil visually by watching what wand they fill your car with 5w30 full synthetic…try to do this subtly just eyeballing it

6) they will actually top off all your fluids and set your tire pressure and you will know this because you saw them do it.

7) ask the guy in the hole to use a new drain plug if your car has a plastic plug

8) you drive car in and out of bay so nobody else sits in your car

9) try to go at a time when they aren’t busy….like don’t go at noon on Saturday….go at 6pm on a Tuesday if they close at 7

10) be cool as a cat….have an “it’s me, not you” tone and explain that you are ocd and have had bad experience with other shops in the past…tips and a genuine appreciation for their hard work go a long way

 

[robvas]

Most of the dealerships here basically have a quick lube attached instead of doing the changes in the actual service area

the Pennzoil branded place by my house will do your own oil/filter for $15

I'd just rather do it at home these days

I don't want them messing with my airbox, spraying my door hinges, fucking with my tire pressures...

 

[noac]

Most of the dealerships here basically have a quick lube attached instead of doing the changes in the actual service area

the Pennzoil branded place by my house will do your own oil/filter for $15

I'd just rather do it at home these days

I don't want them messing with my airbox, spraying my door hinges, fucking with my tire pressures...

understand….but some peoplehave physical limitations, no garage, work 100+ hours a week…etc….we all have e a cross to bear

 

[Wiley Marmot]

My dealership has a Quicklane Dept that handles oil/filter changes, brakes, etc. I took my own oil/filter (Mobil One & a Purolator 20 K full synthetic filter) in @ 3 K for my GT's first change.

$36 dollars..............................no hollar! They were pretty quick about it too!

Per Rob's observation/preference..........................I politely made sure they "cl;early" understodd they were to do NOTHING else! ESPECIALLY **** with my tire pressures!

 

[Bikeman315]

Dealerships are terrible. Worse than drive in style “Jiffy Lube” type places. My advice, if doing it yourself if not feasible….establish a relationship with a Jiffy Lube type place near you. Here are some key points on Doing this…..

1) get to know the guys by BS a bit and stay with your car out in the lane if possible.

2) tip dude down below $10 and ask him to wipe off any spills, etc

3) before you pull in….while you are outside before you enter the bay tell them what you want and tell them not to use fender protectors…..when you get inside say this again and ask them to just be careful, give them $10 tip…those big rubber fender protectors do more harm than good

4) bring your own Motorcraft filter, and you own oil if you want

5) verify they are using the correct oil visually by watching what wand they fill your car with 5w30 full synthetic…try to do this subtly just eyeballing it

6) they will actually top off all your fluids and set your tire pressure and you will know this because you saw them do it.

7) ask the guy in the hole to use a new drain plug if your car has a plastic plug

8) you drive car in and out of bay so nobody else sits in your car

9) try to go at a time when they aren’t busy….like don’t go at noon on Saturday….go at 6pm on a Tuesday if they close at 7

10) be cool as a cat….have an “it’s me, not you” tone and explain that you are ocd and have had bad experience with other shops in the past…tips and a genuine appreciation for their hard work go a long way

Not all dealers are terrible. Most Jiffy Lubes are. If you cannot establish a good relationship with the service manager at your dealer find a local shop with a loyal following.

 

[StangMobile]

At the dealership they are changing the oil again. First they said it’s a clerical error most likely and after I insisted that they should redo it, they agreed to it.

 

[roadpilot]

Dealerships are terrible. Worse than drive in style “Jiffy Lube” type places. My advice, if doing it yourself if not feasible….establish a relationship with a Jiffy Lube type place near you. Here are some key points on Doing this…..

1) get to know the guys by BS a bit and stay with your car out in the lane if possible.

2) tip dude down below $10 and ask him to wipe off any spills, etc

3) before you pull in….while you are outside before you enter the bay tell them what you want and tell them not to use fender protectors…..when you get inside say this again and ask them to just be careful, give them $10 tip…those big rubber fender protectors do more harm than good

4) bring your own Motorcraft filter, and you own oil if you want

5) verify they are using the correct oil visually by watching what wand they fill your car with 5w30 full synthetic…try to do this subtly just eyeballing it

6) they will actually top off all your fluids and set your tire pressure and you will know this because you saw them do it.

7) ask the guy in the hole to use a new drain plug if your car has a plastic plug

8) you drive car in and out of bay so nobody else sits in your car

9) try to go at a time when they aren’t busy….like don’t go at noon on Saturday….go at 6pm on a Tuesday if they close at 7

10) be cool as a cat….have an “it’s me, not you” tone and explain that you are ocd and have had bad experience with other shops in the past…tips and a genuine appreciation for their hard work go a long way

And after all the unnecessary tips to get them to do thier jobs you're already paying for AND paying for all the oil and filter you bring with you, your Jiffy Lube oil change just cost you 3x as much.

Should you also offer to follow them home to mow thier lawns and do thier dishes?

 

[roadpilot]

At the dealership they are changing the oil again. First they said it’s a clerical error most likely and after I insisted that they should redo it, they agreed to it.

Probably refilling it with the wrong oil again, just to spite you ... ... JK.

 

[StangMobile]

Probably refilling it with the wrong oil again, just to spite you ... ... JK.

Haha they probably are, no way to find out I guess.

 

[DarkMatterGrey]

II checked a few manuals for the years, some are 20w and others are 30w. Here's the currently available manual for a 2018, v3:

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...-Owners-Manual-version-3_om_EN-US_03_2018.pdf

Regular is 5w-20 and Track Use is 5w-30.
Pages 299 - 301. 299 shows the header for the 5.0 and the below pic is from 301.

The 2019 manua, 5w-20:
https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2019-Ford-Mustang-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_01_2019.pdf

The 2020 manual, 5w-20:
https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2020-Ford-Mustang-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_12_2019.pdf

The 2021 shows a move to 5w-30: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2021-Ford-Mustang-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_03_2021.pdf

This brings up another issue besides viscosity, the -A oils in the screen capture above are SN oils. The 2024 Mustangs require SN Plus oils to reduce the possibility of Low Speed Pre Ignition “LSPI”. This is probably more common in Ecoboost engines than N/A coyotes. The one approved variance on SN vs. SN Plus is Whipple, who recommends 5w-50, which is out side the SN Plus spec.

 

[rijndael]

This brings up another issue besides viscosity, the -A oils in the screen capture above are SN oils. The 2024 Mustangs require SN Plus oils to reduce the possibility of Low Speed Pre Ignition “LSPI”. This is probably more common in Ecoboost engines than N/A coyotes. The one approved variance on SN vs. SN Plus is Whipple, who recommends 5w-50, which is out side the SN Plus spec.

For a 2024, if you get an oil that is WSS-M2C961-A1 compliant, a 5W-30, you'll essentially get a GF-6A oil that has the 7 new tests for timing chain wear and covers the LSPI requirement.

The older SN stuff was typically GF-5, not GF-6.

 

[DarkMatterGrey]

For a 2024, if you get an oil that is WSS-M2C961-A1 compliant, a 5W-30, you'll essentially get a GF-6A oil that has the 7 new tests for timing chain wear and covers the LSPI requirement.

The older SN+ stuff was typically GF-5, not GF-6.

Mostly correct, the older SN (not SN+) was GF-5 whereas the newer SN+ is ILSAC GF-6.

Also, it’s not what we get from the factory, but also what we’re supposed to get from anyone servicing the vehicle.

My point was the OP only stated viscosity. So I wanted to make its not just viscosity but API and ILSAC spec as well.

Dealers are supposed to be professionals. They should know this. Also, how many quarts 8 (I’ve seen that problem here for the GT’s) vs 9.5/10. Pay extra for “official” service and get less quality is completely unacceptable.

 

[rijndael]

Mostly correct, the older SN (not SN+) was GF-5 whereas the newer SN+ is ILSAC GF-6.

I actually edited my post to reflect that before you quoted me, or at least before you hit the submit button.

Also, it’s not what we get from the factory

Do you have more details on what the factory fill is?

 

[Farmer Fran]

lol. Why you insinuating like he’s gonna fly off the handle. All he asked is if it’s ok and whatnot. The guy has a right to the proper oil the manual recommends and what he paid for.

Discussion forum, i was discussing. Nothing more or less

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