S650 Aftermarket Sound System

[Bigemike]

I looked into it but the Idatalink use chart doesn't like the '24 B&O system as being compatible. Any confirmation anywhere that it does work with it?

You have to call / email them. I had a chart that shows it is. Not sure where I found it.

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[Drewmandoo]

You have to call / email them. I had a chart that shows it is. Not sure where I found it.

I did send them an email just to make sure.

I also hit up a local installer that came up on the Maestro site, they too didn't know 100%, but they DID say the pac audio ap4-fd31 showed as compatible with the 12 speaker, but nothing on their website confirmed it either. Waiting on a reply from them too....

 

[Bigemike]

Call them or send them an email they respond quickly

https://www.idatalinkmaestro.com/en/support/contact-us

 

[Bigemike]

This was the email from their support. It says they work with the 12 speaker

 

[98jfuentes]

It worked. Sounds 100x better

 

[Drewmandoo]

It worked. Sounds 100x better

Clean, looks great. got any pictures of where you tied back in to the factory speaker harness?

 

[98jfuentes]

I’m going to write up a thread on everything I did.

 

[Drewmandoo]

All parts are in. Dark horse is going in the shop on Saturday. Here’s the breakdown of how I’m doing it

The pillars have Pioneer TS-A301TW 3/4’s
The center dash & upper door mids have Kicker 51KSC2704 s
The bottom door woofers are B&C 6MDN44 6.5”s
The deck speakers are JL C1-650X coaxials.

The subwoofer is a pioneer dual voice 10”.

The doors & deck will be wired from the DSP mounted in the rear

I ran wires from the pillars and center console to the spare tire

my installer is building a rack, wiring the PAC bypass & 4 channel. I expect it to be 110% times better than the shitty B&O.

I want to thank you 1000000000x here, as everything i saw online said the factory amp/dsp was under the dash by the drivers feet, but it's not.. In the trunk, drivers side, mounted just like your ford service picture. talk about wasted time trying to sort out why the connectors didn't match up LOL.

I am dropping in an audio control d-4.800 for the interior speakers this weekend

 

[98jfuentes]

I want to thank you 1000000000x here, as everything i saw online said the factory amp/dsp was under the dash by the drivers feet, but it's not.. In the trunk, drivers side, mounted just like your ford service picture. talk about wasted time trying to sort out why the connectors didn't match up LOL.

I am dropping in an audio control d-4.800 for the interior speakers this weekend

I’m glad I could help! Be careful with what you run though. The tweeters/ center dash speakers didn’t work well with a 4 channel. I’m wiring two mini 4 channels & a 2 channel for lower mid bass to handle the load.

 

[Drewmandoo]

I’m glad I could help! Be careful with what you run though. The tweeters/ center dash speakers didn’t work well with a 4 channel. I’m wiring two mini 4 channels & a 2 channel for lower mid bass to handle the load.

I have the center speaker disconnected, don't plan on connecting it either. I may run some crossovers for the 3 in the doors, but i will see how it sounds

 

[smurfslayer]

I have the center speaker disconnected, don't plan on connecting it either. I may run some crossovers for the 3 in the doors, but i will see how it sounds

IIRC, when the system detects low battery, whether there is or isn’t low battery ;-) the ‘chimes’, bells, dings, bells and what not will come through the center speaker. IF you were to disconnect in factory, you’d likely have none of them with low battery, right?

Now, with a DSP, not sure.

I still have a center speaker in my Raptor and get the ‘hollow’ sounding chimes in low battery conditions. My DSP also gets ... confused ... once in a while if I have the door open, and am in gear, or in gear with parking brake on. Sometimes it goes max volume as it switches to the chimes which can be a little jarring.

 

[Drewmandoo]

IIRC, when the system detects low battery, whether there is or isn’t low battery ;-) the ‘chimes’, bells, dings, bells and what not will come through the center speaker. IF you were to disconnect in factory, you’d likely have none of them with low battery, right?

Now, with a DSP, not sure.

I still have a center speaker in my Raptor and get the ‘hollow’ sounding chimes in low battery conditions. My DSP also gets ... confused ... once in a while if I have the door open, and am in gear, or in gear with parking brake on. Sometimes it goes max volume as it switches to the chimes which can be a little jarring.

I have not had any issues with Chimes, and I did turn down the chime level with the PAC interface. The chime sound is different, but no issues so far otherwise.
I get all the door open, trunk open, etc, sounds just fine without the center speaker.
i did end up running a 3 way passive crossover to the doors, running wires from the front ACM harness to the rear. kicking ideas around how to best mount everything. i DO have the replacement amp in the factory location-ish

 

[Fruitstang]

Edit:

All my questions including how to wire the speakers have been perfectly answered in this video:



Unbelievably helpful and can be shared with every installer who is not familiar with the B&O systems in recent Fords!

 

[Fruitstang]

I ran wires from the pillars and center console to the spare tire

Hey, do you happen to know if the original tweeter have passive high pass filters located close to them, so that they could be wired to the upper door speakers to run them like a regular 2-way system fired by the new amp on the AmpPro?
Would save two channels on the amp.

Also, do you have tips on how to remove the A pillar panel without breaking something?

 

[98jfuentes]

Hey, do you happen to know if the original tweeter have passive high pass filters located close to them, so that they could be wired to the upper door speakers to run them like a regular 2-way system fired by the new amp on the AmpPro?
Would save two channels on the amp.

Also, do you have tips on how to remove the A pillar panel without breaking something?

Hey

OEM tweeters do have a resistor helping them get crossover-ed passively but they will stop working once you install the pac module. They need to be amplified

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