Aussie S650 Paint protection and detailing thread

[xrs]

This is where Chemical Guys YouTube channel comes in clutch for me, their products are not too bad but not great either, but their training YouTube Videos gave me the confidence to use the polisher. I also have printed and laminated the chemical guys how to charts they are a great reference to have in the Garage. I don't have an expensive DA just an Ebay $200 dollar one, my first one from Car Care Products DAS6 died. I would consider the smaller polisher from Waxit as a do need one to get into the tight spaces.

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[DFB5.0]

This is where Chemical Guys YouTube channel comes in clutch for me, their products are not too bad but not great either, but their training YouTube Videos gave me the confidence to use the polisher. I also have printed and laminated the chemical guys how to charts they are a great reference to have in the Garage. I don't have an expensive DA just an Ebay $200 dollar one, my first one from Car Care Products DAS6 died. I would consider the smaller polisher from Waxit as a do need one to get into the tight spaces.

Check out The Rag Company channel, they have a huge back catalog of how-to videos, at least they are using great products.

For the very occasional user, I'd recommend buying a 5-inch machine first, be that a corded electric or battery powered. You would then add a multi-function type machine to take care of 1-inch up to 3-inch pads.

For the 5-inch, this kit would be an exceptional starting point, or they sell it separately as well -
Shop The Waxit Enthusiast Polishing Kit! | Waxit Car Care
ShineMate ERO600 5" 9mm | Dual Action Polisher – Waxit Car Care

You would then add the ShineMate EB210 to cover everything else -
ShineMate EB210 | Mini Multi-Action Cordless Polisher – Waxit Car Care



However, what I would do would be to buy the battery powered EB212 5-inch, then add the EB210. Both use the same battery and charger. Those two would be a brilliant combo for any detailer, hobbyist or pro.
ShineMate EB212 | Mini Dual Action Cordless Polisher – Waxit Car Care
ShineMate EB210 | Mini Multi-Action Cordless Polisher – Waxit Car Care

 

[xrs]

Ok you got me buying more tools sigh but will have to be when I get my bonus in September. 5.0ALM do you have another car to practice on? I have my daughters' cars and wife's car to practice on 2007 Focus, 2015 Focus and 2009 FG G6E. You will need to polish even new cars, i have already done some on the boot lid of the Mustang, I also put a tree mark on the rear bumper because my drive way is long and lined with trees, so first time backing out with the mustang i end up having to polish out the mark.

 

[5.0ALM]

5.0ALM do you have another car to practice on? I have my daughters' cars and wife's car to practice on 2007 Focus, 2015 Focus and 2009 FG G6E.

My only other car is the 2016 RAV4 Cruiser.
It has "Liquid Bronze" metallic paint, so not sure if that would show any screw ups, more that the flat Oxford White paint on the Mustang?

 

[DFB5.0]

The following are two of the many solvent products Koch Chemie make. One is powerful but safe, one is powerful and should be used with care.................

Koch Chemie Teerwasche-A TEA

Removing tar and adhesive residue would have to be one the most tedious and annoying detailing tasks there is. It's also a task that poses significant risk to your paintwork, especially if its been on the car for extended periods. So, having the assistance of an effective chemical is vital.

Koch Chemie TEA is very similar to Carpro's TarX, both in how it works and how it smells. I tried looking for the TarX SDS to compares, but Capro really don't want you to do this because I simply can't find it. So, you are just going to have to take my word for it, both products have that citrus-like aroma and quickly soften tar deposits for easy removal. In addition to tar removal, TEA and TarX will assist in the removal of stubborn adhesive residue.

Koch Chemie (TEA) Teerwasche A | Special Tar & Bitumen Remover – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Teerwäsche A - Tea | The Rag Company

Price wise, a 1-litre bottle of TEA will set you back $29.95, the same size bottle of TarX will cost $44.95. I've found both about the same in terms of cleaning power, perhaps with an edge towards TarX.

How To Use -

My tar removal process takes place after cleaning the vehicle and while still wet. This is because if you need to agitate the affected areas with the tar remover, you aren't rubbing dirt into your paint, and while still wet so you can rinse off and neutralize the chemical. Having said that, the sooner you remove tar, the better, so at the very least wipe down the area before and after with a water-less/rinse-less wash.

1. Clean vehicle as usual.

2. Working small sections, spray the affected areas with TEA and allow to dwell. You will see the tar spot start to bleed, which is your clue to rinse or agitate. I've found a strong pressure washer blast will remove most tar deposits using this method, but if they remain, repeat the process and agitate with a microfiber towel.

3. After treatment, rinse the surrounding areas thoroughly to remove any remaining chemical residue.

The same process would apply to adhesive removal.

Usage Notes -

- TEA is ready to use, no dilution required.

- TEA can be sprayed direct or into a towel. You will need to purchase the spray head separately though.

- This is a solvent, so be careful when using it, and where possible avoid using in direct sunlight or on hot surfaces. Never let it dry on the treated surface.

- Keep in mind these products are a last resort, as in use the least aggressive method first (pre-soak, washing). And yes, they can affect waxes and sealants.

- For stubborn stains, I've found the TRC Jersey Bug Scrubber to help the situation.

- If removing adhesive, chose your towel wisely as you will be throwing it away when you are done.

Koch Chemie Eulex EU

This is a last resort product used for removal of extremely stubborn tar, sap and adhesive deposits. There is no getting around this, Eulex is an extreme duty sledgehammer! It also has a very high evaporation rate, meaning you need to work a little quicker and treat smaller areas. If that reads like its dangerous to use..............well, that's because it is to a certain extent. So, why use it?

Koch Chemie (EU) Eulex | Powerful Adhesive & Stain Remover 1L – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Eulex | The Rag Company

The biggest drawcard of using Eulex is how quickly and easily it will dissolve contamination. There is a risk to that, but then there is also a risk of using a less capable product and having to hammer down on the paint for it to do the desired job. Eulex can be used on painted, glass and metal surfaces to remove the following -

- Adhesives
- Tree sap
- Rubber residue (good for all you tire-fryers)
- Paint overspray mist
- Ink stains
- Oil and grease
- Tar

How To Use -

While Eulex is a powerful product, it's safe when used correctly.

1. Wash the vehicle or spot clean before using Eulex.

2. Apply a small amount of Eulex to a towel or microfiber sponge, then lightly dab the affected area to help soften the deposit. Reapply and retreat as needed.

3. Once the contaminant is removed, rinse or neutralize the treated and surrounding areas after use.

Like TEA, I would be using Eulex while the car is still wet and able to be properly rinsed after use.

Usage Notes -

- Be careful with Eulex! It's a strong solvent that won't tolerate fools, so use common sense and work small areas in a well-ventilated space.

- Eulex can be sprayed, but I don't recommend it. I much prefer to apply it to a towel or applicator for more precise control. Like other KCx products, its not supplied with a sprayer, rather a dispensing cap.

- Do not use Eulex on matte wheels or finishes, you will need Eulex M for that.

- I've removed paint overspray using Eulex to great success.

- Any towel you use with Eulex is going to be destroyed, so choose wisely. TRC Rip-n-Rags excel here.

Final Thoughts -

I think there is value in having both of these. TEA will have you sorted in most situations, but Eulex can be a life saver on those really stubborn tar and adhesive deposits.

 

[Deano1978]

Hi guys,

Didn't think this worth worth a new thread so figured I'd post here since it's paint related.

Check out the pic below, mottling of the colour where the bonnet meets the qtr panel on the drivers side. You might need to zoom to see it.

It extends from the bonnet ridge to the qtr panel for the length of the bonnet.

Have sent these to the dealer and he's asking the service dept about it, doubt they can do anything, and the cure might be worse than the disease.

It's booked for PPF next week, will still get it filmed and if they end up replacing the bonnet, I'll try and get them to pay for new PPF too.

Got a call from the service dept yesterday, the lady said they'd reviewed the photos and can't see anything wrong so I need to take it to them tomorrow so they can get photos from certain angles defined by Ford and put it through the system.

My dealer rep agreed something looked fishy but the service dept doesn't - I think I know where this is going and it'll be a battle between Ford and my persistence.

 

[5.0ALM]

Got a call from the service dept yesterday, the lady said they'd reviewed the photos and can't see anything wrong so I need to take it to them tomorrow so they can get photos from certain angles defined by Ford and put it through the system.

My dealer rep agreed something looked fishy but the service dept doesn't - I think I know where this is going and it'll be a battle between Ford and my persistence.

In an ideal world, your dealer will get another example of the same colour in, and a side-by-side comparison will nail it.

Ask your dealer: when are they expecting another Atlas Blue GT in? So you can bring yours in, and compare.

 

[Deano1978]

In an ideal world, your dealer will get another example of the same colour in, and a side-by-side comparison will nail it.

Ask your dealer: when are they expecting another Atlas Blue GT in? So you can bring yours in, and compare.

All they have to do is look at one side of the bonnet compared to the other, the issue is pretty obvious in person. I'm just worried about getting the run around.

To complicate things further it's getting PPF on Mon so gotta decide whether to get the bonnet done now or leave it assuming Ford will respray it and get the PPF done afterwards. My chances of Ford paying for the PPF to be reapplied after a fix are slim to none.

 

[bfets]

@DFB5.0 , I know one shouldn't really ceramic coat leather but I've been given a bottle of Geyon's leather coating by a friend

https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/...FwXs_ZJYzlr9fU9lkSIsDcqLpBiY462TaquThkipvpen2

Seeing the Mustang doesnt really have genuine leather, you reckon its still a no-no? Or is it something you would consider doing?

 

[DFB5.0]

Koch Chemie Plast Star PSS

Koch Chemie Plast Star is an exterior dressing designed for unpainted plastic and rubber surfaces. Unlike a lot of water-based exterior dressings, Plast Star's ability to bond to the treated surface means it will last "months, not weeks". The protective layer left behind will then protect old and new surfaces from UV damage and fading.

Koch Chemie (PSS) Plast Star Silliconolfrei | Exterior Plastic Care – Waxit Car Care

Plast Star can be used to enhance and protect new plastic and rubber trim, preventing premature discoloration. It also has the ability to revive older, faded surfaces. I've found treated areas take on a darker, satin sheen. Plast Star can be used on the following areas -

- Rubber/plastic window and door trims
- Unpainted bumpers, bumper inserts and diffusers
- Unpainted side skirts
- Unpainted wing mirrors
- Door seals
- Engine bay plastics
- Wheel arch liners
- Tyres

Early on, my initial uses for PSS were on tyres and rubber window trims. I have also used it on side steps, although just be mindful that it will add some slickness to those surfaces.

How To Use -

As with any protective layer, the success or otherwise lies in the preparation before application. PSS is not different.

1. No matter the surface, start by cleaning the areas to be treated. For tyres, use a strong tyre cleaner, on trim you may want to use a strong APC and wipe down with an IPA prep spray.

2. Ensure the areas for treatment are fully dry before application.

3. Add PSS to a sponge or microfiber applicator and work it over the surface. The product will go on quite wet and runny, but as it bonds and flashes, it will turn sticky............that is your clue that it's been worked sufficiently. Sometimes, you may need to apply a second layer on faded surfaces.

4. Allow the product to dry and fully bond.

Usage Notes -

- On plastic and rubber trim, you may find using a prep spray will help evaporate any remaining moisture before application.

- For trim and plastics, PSS is best applied with a microfiber applicator. On tyres, I've found those ultra-dense cosmetic-style brushes to be the pick.

CARPRO DarkSide Brush | Tyre & Rim Brush – Waxit Car Care
Economax Super Soft Detailing Brush – Waxit Car Care

CARPRO DarkSide Tire Applicator Brush - Skys The Limit Car Care
Amazon.com: Amrules 2PCS Car Interior Detailing Brush, Auto Car Detailing Brush Dusting Brush, Soft Bristles Car Interior Cleaning Tool for Dashboard Interior, Exterior, Skylight, Leather, Dust Brush (Black) : Automotive

- You will find PSS a little grabby on tyres, especially as it begins flashing.

- Once bonded, PSS is dry to the touch and won't accumulate dust and dirt.

- PSS is a ready to use product and should not be diluted or used on wet surfaces like, say, 303 or Hyper Dressing.

- PSS doesn't come with a spray head, rather the signature KCx dispenser.

- Koch Chemie suggests PSS will leave a "semi-matte appearance". If used on tyres, you may find it a little glossier, tyre dependent though.

Final Thoughts -

The biggest drawcard of Plast Star is its durability compared to other trim dressings. No, it won't approach the longevity of a trim dye such as Solution Finish, or a ceramic trim coating. But it will easily outlive a water-based dressing that will disappear at the next wash. In other words, PSS is a happy middle ground, both in application ease and overall longevity.

 

[DFB5.0]

@DFB5.0 , I know one shouldn't really ceramic coat leather but I've been given a bottle of Geyon's leather coating by a friend

https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/...FwXs_ZJYzlr9fU9lkSIsDcqLpBiY462TaquThkipvpen2

Seeing the Mustang doesnt really have genuine leather, you reckon its still a no-no? Or is it something you would consider doing?

You probably asked the wrong person here, I'm a bit of a leather Nazi.

I personally wouldn't apply it, free or otherwise.

Gyeon will have designed it for mixed materials classified as "leather" (read - vinyl sections and plastic-coated split-grain leather), but I just don't like the idea if something goes wrong during application, you can just polish it off like you would on paint. It also locks you into a certain time frame, which is not always a good thing on what is a "breathing" surface.

I'm quoting someone here, but there is merit in leaving the leather (and leather-like) care to the leather care experts rather than a detailing brand that also sells leather products. That's why I love ColourLock and their system.

For use with brand new cars, ColourLock recommend using Leather Shield during the first 3 years. This protects against abrasion and colour transfer and should be applied every 6-months on the driver's seat, the rest once a year.
Leather Shield conditioning for new leather | COLOURLOCK | COLOURLOCK Australia

From then onwards, apply Leather Protector.
Leather Protector condition, protect & nourish | COLOURLOCK | COLOURLOCK Australia

The best thing? No gloss or greasiness, just beautiful soft leather with a natural sheen.

 

[bfets]

You probably asked the wrong person here, I'm a bit of a leather Nazi.

I personally wouldn't apply it, free or otherwise.

Gyeon will have designed it for mixed materials classified as "leather" (read - vinyl sections and plastic-coated split-grain leather), but I just don't like the idea if something goes wrong during application, you can just polish it off like you would on paint. It also locks you into a certain time frame, which is not always a good thing on what is a "breathing" surface.

I'm quoting someone here, but there is merit in leaving the leather (and leather-like) care to the leather care experts rather than a detailing brand that also sells leather products. That's why I love ColourLock and their system.

For use with brand new cars, ColourLock recommend using Leather Shield during the first 3 years. This protects against abrasion and colour transfer and should be applied every 6-months on the driver's seat, the rest once a year.
Leather Shield conditioning for new leather | COLOURLOCK | COLOURLOCK Australia

From then onwards, apply Leather Protector.
Leather Protector condition, protect & nourish | COLOURLOCK | COLOURLOCK Australia

The best thing? No gloss or greasiness, just beautiful soft leather with a natural sheen.

Thanks mate. I think I know who you're quoting.

I think I'll just order myself a bottle of Leather Shield then.

Punt the Geyon in the trash to quote the same person. haha

You reckon its good for the Mustangs Recaro fake leather even though they seem to say only to use it on genuine leather?

 

[DFB5.0]

Thanks mate. I think I know who you're quoting.

I think I'll just order myself a bottle of Leather Shield then.

Punt the Geyon in the trash to quote the same person. haha

You reckon its good for the Mustangs Recaro fake leather even though they seem to say only to use it on genuine leather?

I've been using it on new car "leather" for years now and it works just fine. They do have an Artificial Leather Protector, I have it but never use it, I just stick with the regular stuff.

COLOURLOCK Protector / Conditioner for Artificial Leather & Vinyl, 150 ml | COLOURLOCK Australia

 

[DFB5.0]

Koch Chemie S0.02

In typical German fashion, Koch Chemie have a very structured product name and code system. In some ways, the colour coding helps group similar products together. However, the abbreviated numbers and letters probably only makes sense to the Germans as it often says nothing about what the products are used for. It certainly takes time to know your way around the Koch Chemie lineup.

I mention all this because S0.02 doesn't exactly say what this product is. The nondescript name and the fact the product previously listed $91.95 (AUD) for a 500ml bottle, I'm guessing many people simply kept on scrolling. I'll admit, I never really considered S0.02 because of that price, even after someone in the industry told me how good it was. In actual fact, I only sampled it after I won a bottle in a monthly give-away.

Koch Chemie Spray Sealant S0.02 | High Gloss Hydrophobic Spray – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Spray Sealant | The Rag Company

What Is S0.02?

Despite the same suggesting its ceramic based (Si02), Koch Chemie S0.02 is actually a siloxane-based polymer spray sealant. That formulation makes it supremely slick, glossy and hydrophobic. S0.02 will also deepen painted finishes, adding depth and saturation. It's also supremely easy to apply, probably one of the easiest of its type I have come across.

It can be used across most exterior surfaces, either as a standalone or topper to an existing sealant or ceramic coating. Expect S0.02 to last up to and beyond 12-weeks/3-months depending on vehicle usage, maintenance and storage.

S0.02 can be applied to multiple surfaces, including -

- Painted surfaces
- Unpainted plastic
- Rubber trim
- Glass
- Chrome
- Wheels

How To Apply -

As I said earlier, S0.02 is supremely easy to work with. Compared to something like Bead Maker, it requires far less product and far less towel work to get a streak-free finish. I'd say S0.02 is on par with Armour Detail Supply Spray Sealant and the improved Carpro Reload 2.0 for application ease, but with more gloss and slickness.

1. Clean the vehicle prior to application. If using as a topper, you can skip step two.

2. For standalone protection, you may want to decontaminate the vehicle with an iron remover and clay treatments. Then follow with an IPA prep spray.

3. To apply, prime a towel with 3 - 4 sprays of S0.02. Working panel to panel, apply 2 - 3 sprays directly on the panel, wipe with your towel, then flip and buff to streak free. I tend to use a single towel to do this, but you can also have a second/dry towel for the final buff.

4. Avoid washing the vehicle within the first 24-hours to allow S0.02 to fully cure.

The paint on this Range Rover was absolutely hammered, full of swirls from using a car wash broom. S0.02 made is so dam glossy that it helped to disguise the true condition of the paint..........................

Usage Notes -

- Gently shake the bottle prior to application.

- S0.02 is so supremely easy to use that I have never had it streak, which is not something I can say for a lot of the spray sealants on the market.

- Koch Chemie recommend breaking up large surfaces, but I've found S0.02 to be very forgiving in this regard. Just don't apply in the sun or on hot panels.

- I've found this product to pressurize the bottle in hot weather, so close off the spray head after each use or you have it leaking.

- S0.02 is excellent on unpainted trims and bumpers, it gives these surfaces a darker, richer appearance.

- S0.02 is ready to use, no dilution required/recommended.

Final Thoughts -

S0.02 is one of those products that instantly won me over, a surprise winner that I had originally dismissed due to the price. Now that it's about half the price, and the fact a bottle will go a very long way, S0.02 is yet another KCx product worth looking at.

 

[5.0ALM]

As I said earlier, S0.02 is supremely easy to work with. Compared to something like Bead Maker, it requires far less product and far less towel work to get a streak-free finish. I'd say S0.02 is on par with Armour Detail Supply Spray Sealant and the improved Carpro Reload 2.0 for application ease, but with more gloss and slickness.

I was washing the Mustang this afternoon, and I'm half way through a bottle of Bead Maker.

Now, I'm in a real predicament!
What will I replace it with?

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