Aussie S650 Paint protection and detailing thread

[xrs]

Sorry I keep posting in DFB's post my apologies, I will blame my excitement over learning new detailing stuff lol. I got thinking about buckets after bfets & ALM were talking about them, i have about six for all sorts of things, my first purchase was a three set from Car Care Products labeled wheels, rinse & wash, then I have three of the $9 ones from KMART for washing my tools and I have Bowden's Own wash bucket all with various grit guards. Then that got me today into washing all my microfibre towels, applicators and polish pads, then that lead me to this post and this question for DFB can you do one of your wonderful posts on washing and cleaning your tools if you haven't already, I will have to look back now. How, why, what you should keep or what you should throw out after use. I buy cheap microfibre towels from Aldi i think micro fibre towels are mostly are the same just make sure you rip the tabs off and I wash/clean with a heavy cleaning adjent about four times before chucking them out, my wife's into cosmetics and they sell detergent and a thing called heavy clean so that's what I clean everything with i get it at a discount. So as I write this my towels have been soaking in buckets overnight with grit guards at the bottom and are now in the washing machine getting another wash with heavy clean. Oh i use lots of towels as I normal do one job with them and then straight into the wash bucket, grab another one.

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[DFB5.0]

Sorry I keep posting in DFB's post my apologies, I will blame my excitement over learning new detailing stuff lol. I got thinking about buckets after bfets & ALM were talking about them, i have about six for all sorts of things, my first purchase was a three set from Car Care Products labeled wheels, rinse & wash, then I have three of the $9 ones from KMART for washing my tools and I have Bowden's Own wash bucket all with various grit guards. Then that got me today into washing all my microfibre towels, applicators and polish pads, then that lead me to this post and this question for DFB can you do one of your wonderful posts on washing and cleaning your tools if you haven't already, I will have to look back now. How, why, what you should keep or what you should throw out after use. I buy cheap microfibre towels from Aldi i think micro fibre towels are mostly are the same just make sure you rip the tabs off and I wash/clean with a heavy cleaning adjent about four times before chucking them out, my wife's into cosmetics and they sell detergent and a thing called heavy clean so that's what I clean everything with i get it at a discount. So as I write this my towels have been soaking in buckets overnight with grit guards at the bottom and are now in the washing machine getting another wash with heavy clean. Oh i use lots of towels as I normal do one job with them and then straight into the wash bucket, grab another one.

Leave it with me.

One thing I will say, I went looking for specs on those Aldi towels and found reference to a 90% Polyester, 10% Polyamide blend. That is probably why you feel the need to clean them 4+ times before use. When they bump up the polyester, that takes down the absorbency rate, so they end up pushing product around instead of absorbing excess product into the fibers.

That doesn't mean those towels aren't worth having, but it does limit their versatility. For top level towels, you are looking at a 70/30 and 80/20 blends. These don't have to be expensive either. For bulk quantity towels, the TRC Rip-n-Rag's are a 70/30 blend and work out to be 0.87c each. They also do a XL version which have a pearl weave for $1.99 a towel.

The Rag Company "Rip n' Rag" Multi-Purpose Microfiber Towels 30X30 - Detailing Shed
The Rag Company Ultra Rip N' Rag XL Multipurpose Microfiber Towels 40X - Detailing Shed

These don't need to be wash before use either.

 

[xrs]

There is a couple of lessons I am learning from you. 1. Good microfiber towels are cheap so no reason to not have allot of them and to find other alternatives 2. Product use most likely the reason people don't get good results is they are not using enough product, this is a cause and effect of the cost of the product, and you tend to try and reduce the amount and not get good results, which is another plus for Waxit selling a good product KC cheaper.

 

[DFB5.0]

There is a couple of lessons I am learning from you. 1. Good microfiber towels are cheap so no reason to not have allot of them and to find other alternatives 2. Product use most likely the reason people don't get good results is they are not using enough product, this is a cause and effect of the cost of the product, and you tend to try and reduce the amount and not get good results, which is another plus for Waxit selling a good product KC cheaper.

I hope my responses don't come across condescending, certainly not my intention. I was where you are at the moment and learnt in a similar way, asking questions and doing my research. This included towels because I used to ration them, they were a significant investment for me at the time.

Back in the early 2000's, microfiber wasn't mainstream. For my "good" towels, I started out using whatever was available at the auto-store, namely those Meguiar's terry towels and the gold microfiber. I'd then buy cheap prepackaged towels from the Reject Shop for "B-grade" towels, then pinch rags from my father's workshop for dirty jobs. Two things that stand out here, those Meguiar's towels were (and still are) vastly overpriced. Secondly, those Reject Shop towels were cheap for a reason.

I then found The Rag Company and discovered good towels aren't necessarily expensive, you just need to know where to shop for them. The hardest part is knowing what towel suits each task. I remember sitting in front of my computer with an endless list of towels on offer and being completely overwhelmed, you know how it is when presented with too much to choose from. It took me many years to know what to look for in towels, so when I make recommendations, its after making all the mistakes myself. Stuff like buying cheap towels because more is more, only for them to be completely useless at just about everything. Or buying towels from the auto-store that, while decent towels, are so overpriced because you are paying for a label and packaging as well. Or using the wrong towel on glass and wondering why my windows were covered in lint.

Some more reading for you.....................

(2) Microfiber Towel 101 with DFB | Mustang7G - 2024+ S650 Mustang Forum (Dark Horse, GT, EcoBoost, GT500, GT350, Mach 1)

 

[DFB5.0]

Koch Chemie Motorplast MP

This is another one of those in-demand products from Koch Chemie that was very hard to get for a while there, and when it returned, it commanded a $30 price premium. Since then, the price softened but was still too expensive for what it was. Now though, at $25.95, Motorplast is back in the game.

Koch Chemie (MP) Motorplast | Engine Bay Conserver – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Motorplast | The Rag Company

What Is Motorplast?

Motorplast is what Koch Chemie call an "engine bay conserver"..................in other words, a water-based dressing for your engine bay that will deliver an as-new look. It can be used on a dry surface, however it has the ability to displace water on wet surfaces. In that regard, its perfect to use after cleaning your engine bay, more on that shortly.

Motorplast is heat resistant up to 250 degrees C, the elastic-like film able to breath with temperature fluctuations. Unlike some dressings, once dry Motorplast will prevent dust attraction and adhesion. While primarily beneficial to plastic and rubber surfaces, it will also protect metal from corrosion and other environmental factors. The product also has a distinctive scent that seems to be a crowd pleaser.

How To Use -

You can apply Motorplast on wet or dry surfaces, but its quicker and easier to apply directly after cleaning and while the engine bay is still wet. For the full process, check out the following thread -

(1) Engine Bay Cleaning and Detailing | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

1. Start by cleaning, or at the very least, rinse the engine bay.

2. Once clean and while still wet, spray Motorplast generously across the entire engine bay. Don't worry about getting it on painted/metal surfaces, it won't harm these areas or look greasy.

3. Optional, grab your blower or compressed air to distribute excess water and dressing. I've found this super helpful in getting dressing into the various ribbed and intricate areas without having to mess about with brushes and towels.

4. Close the hood, job done.

Usage Notes -

- The best part of Motorplast is how it self-levels when applied to a wet surface. This means you don't have to be super specific with its application, just spray generously and close the hood.

- When applying, you are aiming for generous coverage.

- You may need to return with a towel a few hours later to level off any high spots.

- Motorplast will protect and enhance rubber, vinyl and plastic surfaces including engine covers, hoses, fuse boxes, intakes, scuttle panels ect.

- The best time to clean and dress an engine bay is BEFORE washing the rest of the vehicle. You WILL get APC or soap on the surrounding outer paintwork and glass, likewise the Motorplast. You don't want either on you paint AFTER cleaning the exterior.

- I've found Motorplast to be on the glossier side, which may or may not be to your taste. I suppose it can be diluted, but compared to alternatives, the beauty of Motorplast is the RTU format.

- Suitable alternatives to Motorplast would be Capro Perl, Meguiar's Hyper Dressing and P&S Dynamic or Natural Finish. However, I've found Perl doesn't self-level as well as Motorplast or Hyper Dressing.

- Probably not an obvious one, but I also use it on my lawn mowers.....................

Final Thoughts -

When Motorplast was priced beyond $50 a few years ago, I'd say there were plenty of cheaper alternatives on the market that would do the same job for much less. However, now that its a shade over $25, Motorplast is a worthy contender. I personally prefer Hyper Dressing, mainly for its ability to provide a more subtle finished look. But if you like that richer look, Motorplast is your product.

 

[Deano1978]

Hi guys,

Didn't think this worth worth a new thread so figured I'd post here since it's paint related.

Check out the pic below, mottling of the colour where the bonnet meets the qtr panel on the drivers side. You might need to zoom to see it.

It extends from the bonnet ridge to the qtr panel for the length of the bonnet.

Have sent these to the dealer and he's asking the service dept about it, doubt they can do anything, and the cure might be worse than the disease.

It's booked for PPF next week, will still get it filmed and if they end up replacing the bonnet, I'll try and get them to pay for new PPF too.

 

[DFB5.0]

Hi guys,

Didn't think this worth worth a new thread so figured I'd post here since it's paint related.

Check out the pic below, mottling of the colour where the bonnet meets the qtr panel on the drivers side. You might need to zoom to see it.

It extends from the bonnet ridge to the qtr panel for the length of the bonnet.

Have sent these to the dealer and he's asking the service dept about it, doubt they can do anything, and the cure might be worse than the disease.

It's booked for PPF next week, will still get it filmed and if they end up replacing the bonnet, I'll try and get them to pay for new PPF too.

Looks as if it didn't get enough paint at the factory.

 

[5.0ALM]

Agreed.
Inadequate base coat.

 

[DFB5.0]

Koch Chemie Top Star TS

Up until a few years ago, I would apply interior dressings on a regular basis. I'm not sure how I discovered it, but my favorite became 303 Protectant for its barely-there appearance. For some reason, I also found it easier to work with compared to the alternatives, it spreading easier and didn't leave streaks.

However, once I started using interior detailers instead, which also contain UV inhibitors, I fell out of the habit of applying specific interior dressings. Products like Carpro InnerQD, P&S Swift and ADS Pilot do two jobs in one, removing dust and fingerprints (cleaning) and leaving something behind (protection). So why I am I highlighting a dedicated interior dressing?

Because they still have a place. While the interior detailers contain UV protection and dressing potential, its only very mild. On the UV front, on a garage queen parked under cover for most of its life, the need for a heavier dressing isn't always needed. However, if you have a daily drive parked outdoors for most or all of its life, having something more substantial on the interior plastics is probably a good idea..............especially in summer.

And so, we arrive at Koch Chemie Top Star.

Koch Chemie (TS) Top Star | Interior Plastics Care – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Top Star | The Rag Company

What is Top Star?

Koch Chemie Top Star is a product that can be used to dress and protect a range of interior surfaces. Plastic, vinyl and rubber surfaces will all benefit from regular applications of Top Star, think rubber seals, dashboards, door trims, center consoles, steering wheels and even artificial leather.

Koch Chemie suggest Top Star can be used as a combined cleaner and protectant, which would be fine on a lightly dusty interior, but you really should clean separately before application.

Once treated, Top Star leaves behind UV inhibitors and anti-static properties. I'd describe the finish to be a natural to satin sheen appearance, which provides a more noticeable result than 303. The scent is consistent with other KCx interior products, a subtle fresh fragrance.

How To Use -

Top Star is a very runny liquid, as such you have options when it comes to application. The product can be sprayed or via the supplied dispenser cap. For spraying, you will need to remove that dispenser cap from the neck of the bottle. Top Star can be applied using a folded towel or microfiber brick.

1. Ensure you are working with a clean, dry surface. Use something like the previously mentioned ASC or Pol Star for example.

2. Lightly shake the bottle before opening.

3. Prime your towel or applicator with Top Star by spraying or dispensing.

4. Work the product over the areas to be treated. I've found Top Star offers excellent coverage, so only small additional amounts will be needed as you work around the interior.

5. Top Star will generally evaporate and self-level, but you can help things along with a separate dry towel if you like. On glossier surfaces, you may need to wipe over these areas to remove streaks.

Application Notes -

Top Star is very forgiving to use, so there isn't much to highlight here.

- If you intend on spraying Top Star, KCx don't supply it with a spray head. You can buy these separately, either from KCx or elsewhere. The KCx ones are nothing special, just a chemical resistant Canyon. Just make sure the tube is long enough for the tall KCx bottles.

Koch-Chemie - Star Spray Head | The Rag Company
Koch Chemie - 1L Spray Head & Bottle – Waxit Car Care

- I prefer to apply Top Star with a microfiber applicator brick as it offers more control. Foam applicators can also be used, but a short pile microfiber applicator will spread the product more evenly and help prevent streaking. I like the TRC Pearl applicators and the Carpro/Gyeon finger mitts.

Microfiber Pearl Weave Applicator Sponge | The Rag Company
CQUARTZ Microfiber Applicator (5 pack)

The Rag Company Pearl Applicator Sponge – The Detail Store
CARPRO Microfiber Applicator - 5 Pack – Waxit Car Care

- I also tend to use the supplied dispenser cap.

- Koch Chemie don't provide a longevity for Top Star other than "long lasting". I'd say expect 2 - 3 months, just depends how much sunlight the vehicle is subjected to.

- Treated surfaces tend to take on some slickness, so probably don't apply to the steering wheel rim, gear shifter, floor mats and pedals.

Final Thoughts -

Top Star makes most sense for daily drivers exposed to a lot of summer sunlight. 303 is still a benchmark in this field if you want a completely OE-look, while Top Star will give some additional enhancement.

 

[bfets]

So I've learned on the weekend how little clearance there is between the brake caliper and the stock DH wheels. I used the Maxshine wheel cleaning brush for the areas it could get into, but I'm wondering if there is something a little softer and more flat that will actually go in between the caliper and the wheel. Else I'll need to pull the car forward and backward many times. I wonder if Carpro's Flatspot brush will go in there.

I'm also ordering the ADS Wheel coating, seeing its generally regarded as the best wheel coating these days by the people I trust. For now I'm just using Geyon Wet Coat on them till I can properly coat the wheels.

 

[DFB5.0]

So I've learned on the weekend how little clearance there is between the brake caliper and the stock DH wheels. I used the Maxshine wheel cleaning brush for the areas it could get into, but I'm wondering if there is something a little softer and more flat that will actually go in between the caliper and the wheel. Else I'll need to pull the car forward and backward many times. I wonder if Carpro's Flatspot brush will go in there.

I'm also ordering the ADS Wheel coating, seeing its generally regarded as the best wheel coating these days by the people I trust. For now I'm just using Geyon Wet Coat on them till I can properly coat the wheels.

I have every brush known to man and none of them will fit completely behind the front calipers. The only ones that go close are the EZ-Detail/Maxshine bristle type.

EZ Detail Wheel Brush - Detailing Shed
https://detailingshed.com.au/collec...h-45cm_quick-effective-cleaning-of-all-wheels

 

[bfets]

I have every brush known to man and none of them will fit completely behind the front calipers. The only ones that go close are the EZ-Detail/Maxshine bristle type.

EZ Detail Wheel Brush - Detailing Shed
https://detailingshed.com.au/collec...h-45cm_quick-effective-cleaning-of-all-wheels

I guess driving the car back and forth is my only option then...

 

[DFB5.0]

Koch Chemie Fresh Up FU

I wonder if the Germans knew what they were doing when they gave this product it's abbreviated name? Anyway....................

Koch Chemie Fresh Up is a product designed to refresh the smell of vehicle interiors. It would be easy to assume that Fresh Up is simply an air freshener, and in that regard, it certainly instills a pleasant, fruity aroma. What separates Fresh Up from a basic interior scent is how it targets odors by neutralizes them instead of just covering them up.

Koch Chemie suggest Fresh Up "encapsulates odor molecules", in turn "eliminating them and making them ineffective". In other words, its a deodorant for your car. Fresh Up is said to eliminate unpleasant smells caused by pets, cigarettes or anything leaving an unusual odor behind (spilled food and beverage). In addition to car interiors, it can also be used on caravans, boats and household areas.

Koch Chemie (FU) Fresh Up | Odour Eliminator – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Fresh Up | The Rag Company

How To Use -

Fresh Up is intended to be used after cleaning as a final step. Sometimes despite extensive cleaning, an odor will remain because the chemicals haven't broken down certain bacteria molecules. Fresh Up in turn helps neutralize what remains.

1. Clean the interior or affected areas.

2. Fresh Up is typically sprayed directly onto affected surfaces, be that carpet, fabric or plastic surfaces. Mist Fresh Up across the area, aiming for a consistent light coverage, no need to soak things down with it.

3. Allow to dry.

Usage Notes -

- Fresh Up is ready to use and dilution is not recommended, you need full strength to do its job effectively.

- Know that sometimes an odor will remain due to a lack of product coverage. This would apply to odors coming from the HVAC system or other hard to reach areas. In those situations, you may need an ozone machine.

- Fresh Up is not supplied with a spray head, common to the white bottle Koch Chemie line. This is because the brand was/is primarily focused on the professional user who would have a stock of spray heads and/or bottles to use with these products with.

- I've found this is another product that kills spray heads. The KCx canyon sprayer will work, but I'd purge the chemical out of the spray head after each use, or be prepared to swap spray heads as needed.

- Great to have on hand if you have children or pets.

- Usually, interior odors will reside in the carpets and fabric seats. I like to reset an interior by misting Fresh Up on the carpets and floor mats after vacuuming and cleaning the interior.

- You would also use Fresh Up after removing stains caused by food or drink. Clean with Pol Star, blot dry with a towel or vacuum, then mist Fresh Up to kill any remaining odor-causing residue.

Final Thoughts -

This is not a product I use often, mainly on the occasional customer car. But if you have pets and children (the same thing really) or use your car as a mobile cafe, then Fresh Up will inevitably prove its worth.

 

[DFB5.0]

Anyone on the Waxit email list would have seen this drop today...................

ShineMate EB212 | Mini Dual Action Cordless Polisher – Waxit Car Care
ShineMate EB213 | Mini Cordless Rotary Polisher – Waxit Car Care



https://www.facebook.com/reel/2638634546327363

Sandro alluded to something big coming from ShineMate, and this is kinda where I suspected they would be going. Listening to it run, the new EB-212 sounds very smooth, not quite Mirka smooth but not for off.

I've been sitting on the fence regarding a 3-inch battery powered polisher for a while now. I have the EB351 3/12, but I find it too bulky for such a small pad. I also have the Rupes LHR75, which so lovely to use, but the air hose does limit its flexibility.

Looking at the options available, the Rupes HLR75 was on top of the list, but after using it at Waxit last year I found it rough as guts. The Mirka is clearly the best, but way too expensive. The Flex PXE-80 doesn't appeal for the same reasons as the EB210............they are a jack of all trades, master of none. I also got a chance to use the EB210, but I didn't like it.

So, is this EB212 the Goldilocks' of battery powered 3-inch machines..............a happy blend of size, torque and price. I think I want one!

 

[5.0ALM]

I've never owned, or used a polisher.
There's something about them that scares me!

The cordless DIY Detail polisher with mid-mounted battery revealed during SEMA 24 did catch my attention though.



The mid-mounted battery to help balance the weight seemed like a brilliant idea.

But I've never used one, so I'm clueless as to how important this might be with overall user experience and contribute to ease of use.

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