Aussie S650 Paint protection and detailing thread

[5.0ALM]

ABCxyz
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How To Use –
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Usage Notes -
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Final Thoughts –
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Deyon, in case nobody has mentioned it (?), I'm really liking this new format with the intro, HTU, UN, and FT breakdowns.

As always, informative, and wordsmith skills that make it a pleasure to read whilst we're learning.

Sponsored

 

[DFB5.0]

Deyon, in case nobody has mentioned it (?), I'm really liking this new format with the intro, HTU, UN, and FT breakdowns.

As always, informative, and wordsmith skills that make it a pleasure to read whilst we're learning.

Thanks.

For a moment there I thought I had screwed up that post, but realized you had abbreviated it.

A couple of weeks ago I had a troll tell me I wasn't a good writer, all because he read something I wrote the wrong way. He then put 1+1 together and got 11 instead of 2, then embarked on series of vicious posts to discredit me and what I do. Apparently, I know nothing because haven't been doing this for 40-years. Apparently, I can't be trusted. Apparently, I'm the Australian distributor for Armour Detail Supply.............................I WISH!

 

[DFB5.0]

For this post, I'm covering two alkaline-leaning soaps within the Koch Chemie lineup. One is simply stunning, one is somewhat underwhelming.

Koch Chemie Auto Shampoo AS

I tried Auto Shampoo a few years ago when the brilliant GSF had been out of stock for several months. My thinking was, if GSF was so good, then AS would surely follow suit. Wrong.

Koch Chemie (AS) AutoShampoo | Vehicle Shampoo – Waxit Car Care
Autoshampoo 5L – Koch-Chemie USA

Auto Shampoo is a mild alkaline soap with a pH of 9.0, which sits in the middle of the neutral GSF and the pH 12.0 Super Foam. This higher pH means it will clean better than GSF, but without the stripping ability of something like Super Foam. Despite claims otherwise, this is not a high foaming soap, no matter the dilution.

In use, while slick and offering good cleaning ability, Auto Shampoo is not a WOW product. The subdued lemon scent is pretty forgettable, slickness is fine, suds are fine, overall...................it's just fine. I get the feeling that the original intent for this soap was for use in commercial car washes applied via the spray gun. The higher pH and cleaning ability, and the low foaming ability support this belief.



How To Use -

Auto Shampoo can be foamed or used in a bucket, but its far better used for bucket washing.

1. Fill you bucket with water, then add 100ml of AS, then agitate with a blast from your hose to foam it up.

2. Wash the vehicle as usual, working top to bottom and rinsing out your wash media in the bucket between sections.

3. Rinse thoroughly.

Usage Tips -

- Koch Chemie Suggest a 150:1 dilution for bucket washing.

- If you are going to foam Auto Shampoo, skip straight to the 5:1 ratio, which would be about 160ml of soap to 840ml of water.

- Auto Shampoo will produce a very thin film when foamed.

- I've found it a great soap for your wheel bucket, the higher alkalinity certainly helps.

- Avoid using in direct sunlight, or on hot surfaces. Avoid letting it dry on the surface.

Koch Chemie Active Foam AF

Like Auto Shampoo, Active Foam at pH 9.5 is a nice middle ground in terms of pH and cleaning ability. Unlike Auto Foam, this soap actually foams, it would want to considering the name.

Koch Chemie (AF) Active Foam | Mild Alkaline Snow Foam – Waxit Car Care
Koch Chemie - Active Foam | The Rag Company

Active Foam can be used as a pre-wash snow foam or used for contact washing. It's strong enough to deal with road grime and bugs, but without being a sledgehammer. However, unlike Auto Shampoo, it can put a dent in your wax or sealant. On a coating, it will act as a deep cleanser and rejuvenator.

Active Foam is one of those products that instantly proved to be a winner. Foam quality is excellent, as is its cleaning ability on wheels and as a pre-soak prior to contact washing. And the scent, ooohhhh the scent. A quick whiff of the bottle reveals a somewhat strange, but pleasant aroma. But once you start foaming it, the sandalwood scent spices the air and lingers for hours after use. It's so addictive! And the scent makes Active Foam somewhat unique, most decon/high pH soaps are unscented. I know fragrance doesn't have any practical benefit, but it certainly adds to the overall user experience and makes you enjoy the task more.

How To Use -

I've been using Active Foam as a mid-strength wheel cleaner and as a pre-wash snow foam. The following is for use as a pre-wash...............

1. For foam cannons, add 100ml of Active Foam to 900ml of water.

2. Foam the vehicle, allow to soak for as long as possible to break down dirt, grime and bugs.

3. Rinse thoroughly.

4a. Re-foam with a pH neutral soap for the contact wash. Or.............

4b. Re-foam with Active Foam for a deeper clean/decon wash.

5. Rinse, then dry.

Usage Notes -

- Koch Chemie recommend a 300:1 ratio for bucket washing, which would be 50ml to 15-litres of water.

- For foam cannons, KCx suggest a dilution ratio between 20:1 down to 7:1. I've found it very capable at 10:1.

- Don't allow this product to dry on the surface and preferably avoid direct sunlight.

- I've been mixing Active Foam to make a 500ml solution (50ml to 450ml of water). This is enough soap to clean four wheels/tyres/wheel arches, then enough to foam a dual-cab Ranger. This way you aren't left with soap sitting in your foam cannon and losing its foaming ability.

- If you want to mix up a full foam cannon, consider using demineralized water to ensure stability while stored.

Final Thoughts -

As mentioned at the beginning, one of these soaps is a winner, and one is a midfield contender.

Auto Shampoo does nothing wrong, other than not foaming well, but it doesn't excel at anything either. Active Foam on the other hand is a winner across the board. It's a product that nails the job title while providing an exceptional user experience. Highly recommended!

 

[DFB5.0]

Koch Chemie Insect & Dirt Remover

Koch Chemie Insect & Dirt Remover is a ready-to-use product for the safe and effective removal of bugs and baked on road film. Designed to penetrate and break down contamination, it can used on all exterior surfaces. With a pH of about 10.5, it's certainly got some kick to it, but not as harsh as some degreasers and all-purpose cleaners. Koch Chemie also suggest it can be used to remove oil and grease build up on engine bays.

Koch Chemie Insect & Dirt Remover | Ready To Use Spray – Waxit Car Care
Insect & Dirt Remover – Koch-Chemie USA

I'm gonna be honest here, of all the bug removers I've tried, they're all mostly the same. This refers to both the chemical aroma and how they function. I know this doesn't apply to the chemical itself, but I've found the bottle and sprayer KCx supply with this product to be vastly superior to most on the market, which in effect makes it easier to use. I don't use a lot of bug remover, so I haven't put one in a fancy spray bottle, meaning I use what is supplied.

How To Use -

Like any product being used to deal with a tough job, let the chemical do the work.................that's why you are using it.

1. Spray affected areas generously.

2. Allow product to soak for as long as possible without drying on the surface.

3. Rinse thoroughly, a pressure washer is your friend here.

In most cases, if you have healthy protection on the vehicle, most bugs will be removed using the above. However, if some have remained, you may want to reapply and agitate with a towel or bug sponge.

Usage Notes -

- I tend to use these products as a pre-soak, allowing them to dwell for a short period before foaming over the top with a pre-wash soap. These two combined usually remove all bug remnants, making the following contact wash safer and easier.

- Avoid using in strong sunlight or on hot surfaces.

- Being an alkaline product, it can degrade waxes and sealants. You would ideally follow with an appropriate drying aid to top up the protection removed.

- These products are generally designed to work safely within the pH tolerances of a ceramic coating.

Final Thoughts -

As I said earlier, bug removers are a much of a muchness.................to an extent. Any of the offerings from the likes of Carpro, Gyeon, Gtechniq and Koch Chemie are going to be well worth having on hand, especially in summer. I've found these pro-grade products far more effective than the rubbish sold at Supercheap, which I found no better than soapy water.

 

[DFB5.0]

Koch Chemie All-round Quick Shine, Quick & Shine, Quick Finish and Finish Spray Exterior

Koch Chemie offers four different quick detailers in their current lineup, of which it’s hard to know what the difference between them is. From the product descriptions, they all sound identical, but digging deeper reveals where each one sits.

All-round Quick Shine, Quick & Shine QS –

These two are the same product, verified by the MSDS. All-round Quick Shine is from the blue bottle consumer range, while QS is from the white bottle professional range. You would expect the larger 1-litre pro bottle to cost more, but it's actually $5 cheaper. Go figure.

Koch-Chemie - Quick & Shine | The Rag Company
Allround Quick Detailer – Koch-Chemie USA

This is another product I had overlooked, mainly because I was already stocked with quick detailers and happy with my selection, Meguiar’s Last Touch and P&S Paint Gloss. All-round Quick Shine was a product I won in a monthly giveaway and ended up pleasantly surprised by it. Most quick detailers are idiot proof to use, All-round Quick Shine is no different, just spray on and wipe off, job done. The great thing about this type of product is how they boost gloss and slickness without overdosing the paint with protection. It took me a while, but I’ve become quite fond of its scent, one used across many KCx products.

Quick Finish –

This is the silicone-oil free version of All-round Quick Shine and QS. I’m guessing this would be aimed at the body shop industry, a competitor to Meguiar’s Final Inspection of P&S Paint Gloss C51. Like the two above, Quick Finish will leave behind some very mild protection, most likely removed at the next wash.

Koch Chemie (QF) Quick Finish | Allround Finish Spray – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Quick Finish | The Rag Company

I found Quick Finish to just as easy to use, but it doesn't quite reach the same slickness and gloss as QS.

Finish Spray Exterior FSE –

This version is somewhat unique in that it’s a combination quick detailer and mineral remover. I really have no use for this so have never bothered to order it. From what I can tell, you’d use this as a drying aid to neutralize high TDS water after washing.

Koch Chemie (FSE) Finish Spray Exterior | Limescale Remover – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Finish Spray Exterior | The Rag Company

How To Use –

All three of these are used like any quick detailer, so I’ll let the following cover each product.

1. Wash the vehicle as usual.

2. You can apply prior to towel drying, or after using a blower to remove the bulk of the water. Three to four sprays per panel.

3. Wipe with the panel with a drying towel, flip or use a second towel and wipe till streak free.

Usage Notes –

- You will need to order a sprayer for each of these, except the blue bottle All-round Quick Shine.

- All four can be used on ceramic coatings.

- With the exception of FSE, you can use these as interior detailers as well. In this regard, they are excellent on glossy trims.

- Avoid using on hot surfaces, especially FSE.

Final Thoughts -

Unless you are dealing with hard water, I'd probably rule out FSE from this quartet. I'd also rule out the silicone-oil free Quick Finish as doesn't reach the same gloss and slickness levels of the All-round Quick & Shine and Quick Shine. Choosing between those two, the 1-litre bottle of Quick Shine makes the most sense.

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And that finishes the review of the Koch Chemie product line I have sampled so far. I haven't used any of the pad and polishing compound range, of which some are highly regarded. Despite Waxit (and others) offering a healthy selection of the KCx lineup, they are only the tip of the iceberg. The KCx range is massive, with a lot of similar products that can do similar things, I'm sure there is some Germanic logic behind it all. They have also recently introduced a marine and RV line.

In the near future, I'm looking forward to use RRW rinse-less wash, and will get a chance to use Reactivation Shampoo when I get around to coating the Wildtrak in the Autumn. I also want to try the relatively new Alkali Wheel Cleaner.

 

[DFB5.0]

Ok guys, this time it's me who has a question to ask.

For those who use a pressure washer and foam cannon when cleaning your car, do you use the 2-bucket method? As in, using one bucket with soap and water, and one with only water. Dunk the mitt into the wash solution, clean a section, then dunk in the rinse bucket, repeat.

 

[bfets]

Ok guys, this time it's me who has a question to ask.

For those who use a pressure washer and foam cannon when cleaning your car, do you use the 2-bucket method? As in, using one bucket with soap and water, and one with only water. Dunk the mitt into the wash solution, clean a section, then dunk in the rinse bucket, repeat.

Yep, 2-bucket method for me. I've heard that it might not make that much of a difference if you use a pre-wash foam and rinse, but to me, it just feels like extra insurance and I dont see it costing me more than a couple of extra minutes. The overhead of filling another bucket and dunking the mitt in another bucket before loading with new soap takes very little time IMHO.

 

[5.0ALM]

Ok guys, this time it's me who has a question to ask.

For those who use a pressure washer and foam cannon when cleaning your car, do you use the 2-bucket method? As in, using one bucket with soap and water, and one with only water. Dunk the mitt into the wash solution, clean a section, then dunk in the rinse bucket, repeat.

I was doing the two-bucket method for the last 6 months or so.... because I thought that's the way it "should be done".

In recent washes my process has been, and bear in mind it's a garage Queen, so it doesn't get particularly dirty:

* On dry car, foam (pH neutral, but every x washes, use Lift for decon)
* Dwell
* Rinse
* Foam with pH neutral
* Contact clean with MF pad, dunk into rinse bucket

I'm still tinkering here... but starting to wonder why I bought a second bucket and grit guard.

I usually divide the car into 3 sections;
* Pass side A-pillar to back
* Drivers side A-pillar to back
* Front

I could do with one of those side caddies for the wheels brushes etc.

 

[DFB5.0]

I could do with one of those side caddies for the wheels brushes etc.

Mine were from Prime Finish, called the Buckanizer, which were the OG for this idea -
Buy Detailing Outlaws Products Online | Prime Finish Car Care

Don't buy them though, you can get the knockoffs for a third of the price -
Economax Bucket Organiser Clear – Waxit Car Care
MAXSHINE Detailing Bucket Caddy Black/Red - Detailing Shed

 

[DFB5.0]

I was doing the two-bucket method for the last 6 months or so.... because I thought that's the way it "should be done".

This is where I was going with that question.

Going back a number of years, I went and bought several buckets with matching grit guards because I was led to believe that if you aren't using the two-bucket method, you are not washing safely. I went on to start using the 2BM, because that's what I'm supposed to do...............................

But what do you notice about the last image above? That I'm washing in the sun? No not that, but probably avoid doing that. That the car is covered in foamy soap. Correct.

Where am I going with this? Why do I need that extra bucket with soap and water in it when I've already delivered soap directly onto the vehicle. My reasoning here being I achieved maximum soap coverage and therefore maximum lubrication. I therefore only require one bucket with water to rinse the wash pad between sections.

With this one-bucket method, I am washing just as safely as I would with another bucket to fill, lug around and empty. With how widespread foam cannons have become, I just can't grasp why you would bother using the two-bucket method. The exception to this would be if you don't have access to a foam cannon/pressure washer, then yep, 1000% do the two-bucket method.

What gets me "passionate" about this topic is how a certain subset of the detailing community refuse to see the reasoning behind not doing the 2BM, as if you are breaking the rules. I even had one tell me that I am in fact using the two-bucket method..........................I mean, how? A foam cannon is not a bucket.

 

[bfets]

I have to clarify. My cars are never very dirty. At most a couple of weeks of garage dust. What I'm doing currently is:

* On a dry car I foam with my pre-wash soap. Currently using Gyeon Foam, but will sometimes be Carpro Reset or Lift, Koch Chemie GSF, NV Snow or Snow+, depending on what I'm doing and how dirty the car is. (BTW, why isn't Snow getting more love. I reckon its as good as GSF and Reset)
* Dwell
* Rinse thoroughly with pressure washer
* Contact wash with MF pad using 2-bucket method and pH neutral soap. I don't foam the car again with the foam cannon for this step. Just a bucket wash. I typically start with the top half of the car. Then the middle part including boot and bonnet. Then lower areas like rockers and front bumper area. I tend to wash the whole car before then doing a thorough rinse. If I see some areas drying I will rinse before its dry, but I can usually do the whole car, then rinse without any drying/streaking or issues. Another thing I do (weird I know), is that I don't move my buckets. I just leave them in one spot and come back to them often. Hey I need to keep my step count up ok!

I can see your point @DFB5.0. If you do a second foam step (after initial foam and pre-rinse) for the contact wash, you do put soap on the car that you use as lubrication with the contact wash. At that stage its probably nit-picking in terms of if a two bucket method is needed or not. I cant see it making a massive difference.
What I will say is that I've played with the foam, rinse, foam method before but it just felt like certain areas was almost drip dried by the time I got to them leaving me feeling there isnt enough lubrication anymore, hence why I just stuck to the 2-bucket method. I havent tried it much. Maybe I just need to pick up speed or practice it a little more, but I just don't like to feel rushed. I enjoy the process and so to save a bit of hassle with skipping second bucket just doesn't feel like it saves me that much time. If you're doing the second foam step AND the 2-bucket method you will be burning through more soap product as well. So not sure thats worth it either. In the end its probably a much of a muchness. Just do what you enjoy and what works for you. I mean we're washing a car, not sending a man to the moon. We don't need to overthink it.

 

[DFB5.0]

I have two wash processes, both use a single bucket. (Important to note, I have one bucket for wheels, so you could say that I do use the two-bucket method?) Both of these methods are AFTER cleaning the wheels.

Garage Queens / Mild dust & road film -

1. Thoroughly rinse the whole car
2. Foam with pH neutral soap
3. Contact wash with foam on the vehicle, rinsing wash media in the single "rinse" bucket between panels
4. Rinse
5. Dry

Dirty Vehicles / Road film, bugs, dirt ect -

1. Foam vehicle from dry with alkaline soap (Bilt Hamber Touch-less, KCx Active Foam, OG Decon Soap). Allow to soak for several minutes
2. Thorough rinse, taking time to flush out the door jambs, windscreen scuttle, bugs.
3. Re-foam with pH neutral soap
4. Contact wash with foam on the vehicle, rinsing wash media in the single "rinse" bucket between panels
5. Rinse
6. Dry

I'm not challenging anyone's wash method here. Rather, I'm trying to figure out how either of the above could be considered less safe or lazy simply because I don't have two buckets filled with water? And this method is not about me saving time, money and water............................I'm more than happy to set fire to cash when it comes to detailing. Rather, it's about being efficient with my time without compromising the end result.

 

[bfets]

I think your method is perfectly fine. I guess the question is have you ever noticed any swirls or scratches on your vehicles that was introduced by washing? If not, well your method is safe and working for you and your cars.

I also ALWAYS do wheels first. I have a wheel bucket but I dont fill it with water. I just put my brushes and wheel tools in it. Pretty much the same as what Matt from Obsessed Garage is doing. I guess that means I'm using a 3-bucket method.
For me, its not even about efficiency because I enjoy the process and I only wash my own cars, no-one else's. So like I said before, I dont really care if I waste 5 or 10 minutes, so long as I enjoy what I'm doing and it gets the job done safely.

 

[xrs]

only just read the above posts a bit slow, always been a two-bucket man with grit guards, but had the same conclusion as DFB5.0 when snow foaming just have a water bucket but I have warm water, mainly for winter keeps my hand warm here in Canberra.

Today i got a Car Wrapping guy to make up some decals similar to RTR.

I also put in a warranty claim for a new duck bill spoil and mustang motorsport sent me a new one if anybody wants to play around with the old spoiler and try and fix it you can have it for free it will have the bracket for the camera just need to work out if you can fix it with some heat.

 

[DFB5.0]

Pressure Washers 2025

I have covered this topic in the past but since then, both new machines and more affordable accessories have come to market, in turn giving consumers more choice. I think we are now seeing manufacturers acknowledge the detailing sector by producing specific pressure washers tailored for the task. That means superior car washing performance and less modification needed to achieve a usable machine.

What To Look For -

When it comes to using a pressure washer for car cleaning, ultimate pressure ratings take a back seat to flow. While some pressure is needed for the foam cannon, it’s the flow of the machine that does the work. So when shopping, look past the headline pressure numbers printed on the box and delve a little deeper into the flow rate.

In terms of numbers, the aim is to achieve as close to 8 – 10 litres per minute as possible, and a pressure figure between 1000 and 1500 psi. These numbers can be achieved via nozzle orifice sizes, typically you will be opening up the orifice to reduce pressure and boost flow. This is easy to do and can actually allow you to have a low pressure/high flow set of nozzles for car cleaning, and a high pressure/low flow set for outdoor cleaning.

A few other points to consider when looking for a car washing pressure washer -

- Manufactures play funny games when it comes to quoted pressure numbers, so don’t get to hung up on the headline figures as they are often not achieved using the standard gun/lance.

- Look for machines that can be easily upgraded, as in easily accessible and modifiable fittings. The listed pressure washers below are there for this reason.

- Avoid machines with hose reels, they often never work well with the stiff standard hoses and prevent you from upgrading to a longer or superior hose. The exception to this would be the Kranzle K1152, it comes with a great hose.

- On hose length, the magic number is 15-metres. This means not having to move the machine around the car as you work. Most low-end machines come with 5 - 6 meters.

- Avoid petrol power, they are just too powerful for this task. And I mean that in terms of the car's safety, but also from a user comfort point of view as too much power is hard to manage.

- I tend to recommend just buying the basic machine without all of the useless and often crappy accessories. As in, buy the K5 Compact and not the K5 Premium.

- Induction motors are not a desirable feature when it comes to pressure washers, mainly because they tend to have a ramp up/wind down period. For general pressure washing, that ramp up is acceptable because you tend to run the machine for extended periods. On cars though, where you are frequently starting and stopping, that ramp up gets old very quickly.

Tailored Upgrades -

The units listed below are great starting points, but there is always room for improvement. This is where the aftermarket comes into the equation, allowing detailers to modify the setup to significantly improve usability and user comfort. These parts can often outlive the pressure washer, so while they add cost to your setup, they can be transferred to new machines as needed.

Short or Stubby Guns -

- The first thing to change would be the gun. Regulations state that pressure washers must be supplied with a certain gun length. For most applications, this is absolutely fine, but for car washing it can be cumbersome. A short gun solves this.

- A short gun also allows for a swivel at the gun inlet, helping to manage or unwind hose binding, while offering superior maneuverability.

- In most cases, a short gun allows for nozzle orifice changes compared to a fixed rate OE lance.

- A short gun makes using a foam cannon quicker and more convenient.

- An aftermarket short gun can be adapted to an OE hose, or used in tandem with an upgraded hose.

Fittings -

- Quick connect fittings really help boost the convenience factory, making it quick and easy to connect hoses, guns, nozzles and foam cannons.

- Available in brass, plated zinc or stainless steel. Prices vary widely, from a few dollars for brass or Chinese-made parts, right up to the $50+ for Swiss-made stainless.

- Keep in mind, quick connects are a consumable, they are metal-on-metal items that operated under extreme pressure.

- I recommend keeping a few spare o-rings in stock for 1/4 (gun outlet) and 3/8 (hose ends) fittings. These will occasionally fail but are easy to replace.

Hoses -

- Upgraded aftermarket hoses allow us to add both length and quality. I think anyone who has used a pressure washer will know that those hard 1/4-inch hoses are a nightmare. In the aftermarket, we have access to high quality 1/4 and 3/8-inch hoses that are more flexible and less likely to bind.

- An aftermarket hose also allows you to add a swivel point at the machine outlet, again helping to reduce hose bind.

Nozzles –

- For car washing, we want 25-degree and 40-degree nozzle angles. The 25-degree is ideal for wheels, the 40-degree for the paint.

- Keep in mind that changing the angle of the nozzle doesn’t necessarily alter the pressure exiting the nozzle, rather the nozzle orifice. This is especially so for 25 and 40-degree tips. Having said that, don't use the narrow angle tips that often come in a set of nozzles.

- Always pair the correct nozzle orifice to your machine. This helps boost flow and prevents overworking the motor and pump. (More on this shortly)

- Nozzles vary wildly in price, from a few dollars right out to $75+ for a quality rubber shrouded item. I think with car washing, you want the rubber shrouded versions which start at about $40 for an MTM and up to the $75 Mosmatic.

Water Filtration -

This is next level stuff which would be desirable if you are dealing with hard/high TDS water. These resin filters aim to produce 0.00 TDS water, which means you will prevent nasty water spots. In my case, I've never felt the need for one, mainly because I have relatively low TDS town water supply.

These systems are typically used in tandem with a wall-mount system, but there are portable versions too. A few of the detailing suppliers have plug and play solutions available, even Big Boi offer one now.

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...-water-filters
https://ibigboi.com/products/bigboi-d-ionizr1
https://ibigboi.com/products/bigboi-...8-29ab25bb8f3d

Upgrade Kits -

Companies like Waxit and Detailing Shed sell the above individually or in kit form. These kits take some of the guess work out of the equation, making this much easier than it used to be. Waxit for instance have kits to cover most of the popular machines on the market.

To be continued..........................

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