Q6543
Well-Known Member
Last night 3000 plus D/A iirc.I think the truth about the hp ratings will be clear once we start seeing 1/4 mile data. We already know what the S550 times are
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Last night 3000 plus D/A iirc.I think the truth about the hp ratings will be clear once we start seeing 1/4 mile data. We already know what the S550 times are
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/2650-mustang-jpc-racing-part-1-modifications/Pulled seats, drag pack, brakes, E90
11.76 @ 122 “bone stock,” but apprently it has a gutted interior and we can see it’s on drag radials :|Last night 3000 plus D/A iirc.
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Bare bone [stock], bone stock, showroom stock: common = no tune, no adds only deletes, stockBone stock isn’t showroom stock.
Stock engine as delivered from the factory, factory tune… that’s bone stock.
Coyote stock runs 9s on sealed stock coyote engines.
Ontario Canada did away with etests (smog test) a few years back. It’s nothing but a bs money grabThere is a potential problem with this modification. When you get your smog test, they may check to make sure the filter is in place. People have removed the catalytic converter and sometimes even get away with it for a while. Then one of the inspectors does their job correctly and finds it's missing. Needless to say, you don't pass inspection until everything is restored to factory specifications.
There are dyno tests that prove there is really not much difference with them in or out. The dont have very little restriction.this removes the hydrocarbon filters from your intake tubes, allowing more air to flow in and possibly increasing power.
in order for the inspection people to find this change, they would have to take off the intake tube and check it, and even then, this change does not affect your emissions or set a check engine light. unless you take it to a Mustang expert that is actively looking for reasons to fail you, you're all good
1. it's very, very, very unlikely that this will have any bad effects or cause damage to the vehicle
2. unless you forgot something loose in the intake tube when you put it back on, there is no chance this will void your warranty, even the extended ones
3. no, because you have to cut stuff. it is reversible if you buy new intake tubes, though
i dont have any readings for any of that stuff. i just did this because i heard there was a hydrocarbon filter in the intake and removing it is probably some free extra power. about the part itself, i'm not sure about the performance details, but i can tell you the part is non-serviceable/changeable without buying a new intake tube
i wouldn't worry about them. if you damaged one, the only way to replace it is buy a new intake tube for the side damagedOnce I have the carbon traps out, should I put the plastic air deflector back in place? I saw one video where the guy pulled it out all together and it seemed fine and mine seemed fine when I did this, then I saw another video where Somebody said the air deflector should go back so I put them back in although they were very hard to get out initially, extremely snug and one of the cross deflectors got a small crack and a tab broke off. Any thoughts on this? Do I need these air deflectors for the maf? If I want to replace the cracked one, is there a part number or should I just ask service? Thanks
I have launched the car a few times before this modification and after this modification. I would say yes, that there is a noticeable torque gain for sure especially in the 30-60 mph range. (I can’t speak beyond because I haven’t launched to over 100 yet). This is IMO, no Dyno test yetSo what do you guys think if you are someone who has removed them. Any seat of the pants effect?
I can attest that you can do this without removing the Mass Air Sensor if you want to.What you will need:
- - 7mm socket
- - 8mm socket
- - 10mm socket
- - T20 bit
- - Body clip removal tool
- - Something that can cut in small areas (like wire stripper-cutters)
Directions:
1. Pop off the air filter cover. this is done with 2 small clips in the front of the cover. they are very easy to remove and replace.
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2. Take out the black 10mm bolt holding the intake tube to the air box. it really only has resistance for a small distance, then can be undone by hand
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3. Loosen the clamp on the air filter. it has an 8mm bolt to loosen it, then take the filter off completely
4. Loosen the clamp holding the intake tube onto the throttle body. it has a 7mm bolt to loosen it
5. Disconnect the crankcase hose. Driver side has a blue clip that you reach under, pull it towards the front of the vehicle, and pull the hose off. Passenger side has a black push button that you push in and pull the hose off
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6. Unplug the mass airflow sensor and pop off the anchor holding the wire to the intake tube with a body clip removal tool. remove the intake tube from the throttle body, then unscrew the two T20 screws and pull out the mass airflow sensor. you will bend the "fins" on the anchor, there is nothing you can do about it and it will work fine after re-installation
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7. At the end of the tube where the filter attaches, there should be a sort of plastic grate that makes an "H" shape. This is an insert and on either side of the insert there are little clips. pull them inwards at the same time and pull the insert out
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8. Further in the tube is a 3-spoke structure holding the hydrocarbon filter in place. use the cutting tool of your choice to cut each of those spokes as close as you are comfortable with to the base on the outside of the tube
9. Put your hand in the small end of the tube and push the filter out. then repeat what you did for step 8 on the second 3-spoke structure
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10. Re-install the tube, doing steps 1-6 in reverse. NOTE: the mass airflow sensor has a small arrow on it. that arrow is to be pointing the direction of air travel towards the throttle body. Repeat all steps for the other side